When Will Austin's Swimming Holes Dry Up?

Every river forms its own world. Every waterway has a different character—from the gentle creek near where I grew up to the wild and scenic rivers of the American West. As anyone who loves waterways knows: Rivers can transport us, both physically and mentally, to new places. The Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande are home to some of the most remote waters in the lower 48. Fifteen hundred foot canyon walls, weather-stained by millennia, create twilight far before sunset. Between the canyons, the Chihuahuan Desert wraps between weathered buttes and tumbled outcroppings. The river, dusky with sediment, curls through it all. My friends and I put on the Rio Grande at Heath Canyon in January 2017. Over the course of a morning, gear exploded out of the minivan before slowly finding its way into dry bags and onto packrafts. Everyone packed slowly, eyeing one another’s gear choices, asking unanswerable questions. “Do I really need a rain jacket?” “I don’t need this many batteries for my camera,” I said. I did not bring enough batteries. “How many fleeces do I really need?” said Robby, who needed to borrow layers throughout the trip. We wanted a wilderness experience, to be surrounded by the desert and reliant on the river. Within a few hours, we found what we were looking for. The desert sun poured down, and the canyon walls rose around us almost immediately. Day 1—entering the first canyons. Richard Forbes The plan was to run 84-miles of river over the course of eleven days. It can be done far faster, but we weren’t looking to hurry. We floated for long stretches without paddling, surrounded by the quiet enormity of a desert river. We took rest days and explored dry side canyons. We spent long hours around campfires catching up and talking about the future. We took our sweet time, much like the river itself. The Rio Grande, through the Lower Canyons, is not a fast river. There are, on average, only one or two rapids per day, though small riffles form at every riverbend. We didn’t bring any research on the rapids, preferring to blindly read and run. Thundering water reverberated off the canyon walls, warning us about each rapid long before we arrived. We would run them one at a time, paddles thrashing, our packrafts bucking through rocky chutes. While most canoe the Lower Canyons (or raft at higher water), we were continually glad to have the more maneuverable packrafts. At 600 cfs (cubic feet per second), they allowed us to run rapids that we would have needed to portage with any other boat. Between the rapids, the river forms gently flowing flatwater lined almost entirely by river cane. This invasive river cane (Arundo donax) is a recent addition to the area and at its worst, siphons off up to 30% of the Rio Grande’s flow and forms an impenetrable barrier along both banks, often reaching 10 feet into the river. Once in place, it locks sediment into the banks and gradually straightens and constricts the river channel. For boaters, the river cane is changing the landscape along the river. Several evenings, we found ourselves forced to stay on the river past sunset before we could find an opening in the cane to make camp. Texan authorities are beginning to discuss ways to control the cane, but until they find a large scale solution, don’t plan to be picky on which campsites you choose. Day 3—the river cutting through the cane. Richard Forbes Deep in the canyons, we’d form small flotillas or drift along separately, sinking into the reverie of a river trip. But we couldn’t leave the outside world behind. One side is Mexico, the other is the United States. The border is an invisible presence, without fences and signs. The deepest channel of the Rio Grande marks the border along the southern edge of Texas (forming almost two-thirds of the total US-Mexican border) as it flows through urban jungles and remote desert canyons. On paper, boaters are not supposed to cross to the opposite side except in emergency situations. But during our 11 days on the river, we each made countless unauthorized crossings, from lunch breaks to campsites. While the cane often gave us no choice on where we’d sleep, the border, like many things in the backcountry, came to feel arbitrary. On the river, facing downstream, left was the US, right was Mexico. But if the river stopped flowing, we’d have had no idea which country was which. Day 5—near the hot springs. Richard Forbes When we told our friends and families about our plan to float along the border, their first questions were almost always, “is it safe?” These worries are legitimate. Drug smuggling occurs along the entire border, and the Lower Canyons are no different. But all of the locals we spoke to felt safe. Marcos, a retired park ranger, lives only a few miles from the border and has never used his house keys. Keith, a boatman who has floated the Lower Canyons 57 times, said his closest calls were not drug smugglers but an infected cut and an aggressive mountain lion. On our trip, we saw only three people in 11 days, all on the last day, who ended up inviting us to their fishing camp for a catfish fry. The most dangerous part of the Lower Canyons is not the border, but the isolation. To float the Lower Canyons is to be utterly alone. Visitors to this area must be competent and self-sufficient. My friends and I have years worth of combined backcountry experience, and are all certified in wilderness medicine. If something had gone wrong on our trip, there would have been very few opportunities for rescue. Day 6—a quiet float on the Rio Grande. Richard Forbes It’s impossible to talk about the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande without mentioning the proposed border wall. As surreal as it may seem, the American government has already conducted a bidding process, and roughly 20 companies will soon begin building prototypes in San Diego. This hypothetical wall could not be built in the river, nor between the river and the canyon walls. Instead, it would have to be built in the United States, up on the mesa, between all but a few Americans and the awe inspiring Lower Canyons, making recreational access difficult if not impossible. There are many reasons to oppose the wall, ranging from humanitarian and ethical concerns to environmental conservation. A wall would require absurdly massive infrastructure development in such a fragile area, necessitating work camps and new access roads. In building such infrastructure, a unique desert ecosystem would be fragmented, jeopardizing hundreds of endangered and threatened animals and plants. Multiple locals informed us that, “There are already walls along the border, and they’re 1,500 feet tall” and “We don’t need a wall, we need more bridges”. Day 8—drifting in the twilight. Richard Forbes Day after day, my friends and I floated through the desolate desert, seemingly empty but bursting with life. From the water, we looked up at the wilderness surrounding us, our boats gently turning in the breeze, any ideas of the wall distant and incomprehensible. Somewhere beneath us, in the muddy water, lay the border, impossible to ignore and impossible to see. Something so important feels like it should be visible. But what should it look like? A 30 foot concrete wall? A fence with “keep out” signs and razor wire? Or maybe a river, flooding and receding through the seasons, overrunning its banks and changing its course, is the best marker for the border, and ought to teach us a lesson. The border isn’t a line on a map. The border is a region and a state of mind. And the border is worth visiting, if just for a short time. On day 9, we decided to do a night float. We relaxed all day and put on the river in the late afternoon. We floated for a few hours before making a leisurely dinner on a warm boulder in the sun. A herd of desert bighorn precariously picked their way along the opposite canyon wall. The world sank into twilight, then into night. Soon after, the moon came up. We climbed into our boats and pushed off into the black. We turned off our headlamps. Thick clouds passed over the moon, throwing shadows and deeper darkness. We navigated by sound, the cool breeze rustling the river cane, the water lapping against our packrafts. I knew my friends were all within a few hundred feet, but I still felt utterly alone. No one spoke. Animals scurried through the underbrush along the river. The boat lurched and accelerated down a small rapid I couldn’t see. I fought off the urge to turn on my headlamp. Waves splashed my hands. The canyon walls were black against the stars. I floated between the United States and Mexico. Disoriented by the darkness, I finally forgot about the border and about the greater world in general. There was only the river, curling through the desert. If you’re interested in learning more about our trip, the Lower Canyons, and the border wall, feel free to check out my website, where I’m working on a documentary. Details for the trip, because they can be hard to find: Seasonality: October to May (the highest water is in the fall). Don’t do it in the summer. Miles: 84 Days necessary: 7 or longer Whitewater: III+ to IV depending on flow Water: Drink out of the Rio Grande and fill up at seasonal springs along the river. River Flow: Check the Rio Grande Village USGS water gauge. Over 200 cfs is easily runnable, over 1000 is high water and might be safer in a larger raft. Put in: Heath Canyon (private land owned by Heath Canyon Ranch). In 2017, fees were ~$10 for access, ~$5 a day for parking. Take out: Dryden Crossing (private land owned by Harrison Ranch - contact Jon Tom Lowrance). In 2017, fees were $30 per vehicle and $10 per person. Shuttle: 4 hours (160 miles), involving some rough dirt roads near the takeout. Various shuttles are available, all for over $300, which may be worth it, as most waive the private land access fees. Permitting: $12 backcountry use permit available at any visitor center in Big Bend National Park. Hot Springs: Can be found immediately after Hot Springs Rapid (mile 40.7) on the Mexican side. Pro tip: Fish for catfish using a plastic bottle with a handle, attached with strong line or cord to a big hook covered in “stinkbait”. Throw it in the river before you set off every day. It’ll get stuck in the cane constantly, but if you’re patient, you’ll catch a catfish and can have an unforgettable dinner. List of Required Items: Personal Flotation (PFD’s) for each participant and one extra 1 extra paddle per raft, 1 extra paddle total if canoeing or kayaking Human waste management system Patch kit (if in inflatables) Fire pan with 2 inch minimum rim Trash management system

An Ozark native, much of my youth was spent visiting enchanting places such as Whitaker Point, which made the cover of my Arkansas History textbook, and camping with my family along the Buffalo River. However, it wasn’t until a special spring morning in the Upper Buffalo Wilderness that my understanding of the Ozarks’ beauty really shifted. I woke in a friend’s hand-built cabin on the side of a steep hill. Hoping to take advantage of the sunrise, I made my way onto the dew-soaked forest lawn that was the front yard. Between the highlights of morning sun and the young green flora, I was fully captivated. Species of trees unlike any I’d ever seen sparked curiosity, numerous spider webs hid between long streaks of grass, and the dew made the entire landscape sparkle. A hike later that day took us across unmarked hills that revealed even more beauty. We encountered damp cave openings, waterfalls of all strengths, and sweeping overlooks of the snaking Buffalo River around every bend. Big skies framed scattered cabins and treetops. It was on this day that my understanding of my home state widened. I realized that my backyard in the Ozarks had the potential to teach me everything I needed to know about the natural world. With newfound awe for the beauty of the forests, hills, and water of the Ozarks over four distinct seasons, I began to making regular weekend trips to explore as much as possible. I found that no matter where you go, the Ozarks do not disappoint. Hemmed in Hollow. Jeff Rose A drive from town to town within the Ozark National Forest is one way to start. You’ll be aching to take every side road to discover what may be hidden that way. Here’s a list of just seven of the most picturesque spots in the national forest. Whitaker Point Whitaker Point, Hawksbill Crag. Jeff Rose Any Arkansas local will suggest you spend a full day visiting this bluff, and a walk down Hawsbill Crag Trail alone (three miles round trip) makes for the perfect leisurely afternoon. Whitaker Point is a large bluff in the shape of a wolf’s head. The Disney movie “Tuck Everlasting” was filmed here. Big Bluff View from the Goat Trail. Jeff Rose I first encountered Big Bluff, or the Goat Trail, in the middle of January just before a huge snowstorm. Through barren trees, the view was incredible. I’ve been back since in every season, and the view never disappoints actually. After a steep, but very clearly marked downhill hike through the forest, one is led to the more narrow goat trail along the side of a giant bluff. The trail offers chances for hikers to pause within hollow cave walls and ponder the course of the Buffalo River below... Indian Creek A challenging and slippery trail follows the length of Indian Creek, which gives birth to a one-of-a-kind world of mosses, ferns, bugs, and miniature waterfalls. A hike along Indian Creek eventually leads to the Eye of the Needle outlook that frames the distant hills of the Ozarks. Richland Falls Richland Creek. Jeff Rose Richland Falls runs nearly year round but are especially picturesque after a good rain. The hike there also offers views of Hamilton Falls, Twin Falls, and others. It’s not uncommon to encounter swimmers jumping from their safe heights. Compton’s Double Falls Compton's Double Falls. Jeff Rose One of the best things about the Ozarks is waterfall hunting. Compton’s Double Falls is one you’ll want to find, especially after a heavy rain. Access it just past the trailhead for the Hawsbill Crag Trail. Sam’s Throne Sam's Throne. Jeff Rose This massive flat sandstone spot is a great place to set up slack line, chill after a day in the hills, or capture an epic starscape. Sam’s Throne is also rock climbing destination, with 75-foot pitches. My favorite time to visit Sam’s Throne is in the fall as the leaves change color. The Narrows The Narrows. Jeff Rose For a day hike or weekend commitment, the Narrows, or Nars, has a short approach to a unique geological feature from which to view the winding waters below. Located near Richland Creek, the Nars gets it namesake from the narrow rock walk leading to the bluff. Written by Ashleigh Price for RootsRated in partnership with Backwoods.

Neighboring Boulder might steal a lot of the spotlight as a trail running mecca, but The Mile-High City is one of the top running towns in the country, too. Denver boasts 300 days of sunshine, friendly neighborhoods, breathtaking views to the west, and easy access to paved and dirt trails literally out the back door. It's also renowned for its gorgeous urban parks and trail systems that spider out from downtown following the rivers, creeks, and canals that helped build this great city. These trails provide an excellent option to pounding pavement, without leaving the city (with the exception of one). Sure, you may have to cross some roads to get there, and some of these groovy jaunts give you the option to pound the bike path as well, but rest assured you’ve got plenty of dirt to dig without having to go far. Washington Park Washington Park is a supremely popular spot for a trail run. Jeffrey Beall Yes, trail running is legitimate at Denver’s Wash Park, and some even say “jogging” in Denver was born here in the early 1970s. A flat, 2.6-mile dirt trail (adjacent to a paved trail) encircles 155 acres of fields and gently wooded spaces with two ponds, tennis courts, basketball courts and a fitness course. It’s extremely dog friendly (as long as they are leashed) and you’ll see many outdoor group fitness classes training in the mornings and evening, as well as a major volleyball contingent. Just don’t expect to get a lot of alone time here, as it’s a splendidly social running scene. Wash Park is at the intersection of Downing and Louisiana on the northwest corner, where you’ll find plenty of street parking. Cherry Creek, Clear Creek, and South Platte River Trails Confluence Park is awesome for trail running. Ken Lund All of these urban gems are widely known for both road running and bicycling, but they bear mentioning as three of the best trail runs near downtown Denver as well. Accessible from almost anywhere in the city, Cherry Creek Trail runs from downtown at Confluence Park (the confluence with the South Platte River) for 40 miles all the way out to Cherry Creek Reservoir. Any ultra runners out there can then do a lap around trails in lovely Cherry Creek Reservoir State Park, a major trail running destination on its own, before heading back into town. Beginning at Confluence Park, you can run the Platte River Trail either north or south: Both directions feature a dirt track adjacent to the bike path. You can also run all the way to Chatfield Reservoir south of the city for beautiful open spaces and views. Note that the Platte River Trail becomes the Mary Carter Greenway past West Dartmouth Avenue, where you’ll have even more peaceful views. Turn around at Chatfield State Park, and you'll have 30 miles to run (should you want to go that far) north to where the South Platte River meets Clear Creek. Clear Creek Trail, which is also a bike path with plenty of quality dirt track, leads all the way to Golden. Be sure and catch the left hand turn past the Sand Creek Trail turnoff just after the bridge. All three of these offer trails runners a sense of nature as well as adventure in the heart of Denver. They're not exactly hidden gems, but at times you’ll find more solitude than you'd expect, along with wildlife and the sound of waters rushing alongside. The High Line Canal The High Line was completed in 1883 and is designated a National Landmark Trail, a true in-town treasure. The High Line Canal stretches 66 miles through Denver, allowing any variety of distances. To get there, make your way to Mamie D. Eisenhower Park, roughly in the middle of this historic pathway that runs from Cherry Creek to Chatfield Reservoir. Head south through Magna Park, Three Pond Park, and Dahila Hollow Park and continue to the Marjorie Perry Nature Preserve. Or, head north and wind through the University Hills and Cherry Creek neighborhoods. (Burs on the trail can get stuck in your dog’s paws and fur and in your shoelaces, so look out for this common occurrence at any disturbed/regrowth area like a canal trail.) Alderfer/Three Sisters A short drive from Denver, the town of Evergreen has plenty of trails to choose from. Rob Lee A short drive up I-70 (about 30 miles) brings you to the old-school mountain town of Evergreen and the Alderfer/Three Sisters Park. This once-working ranch now offers 15 miles of trails for trail running, hiking, biking and a bouldering area. The winding collection of trails can be a bit confusing. A good place to begin is at the East Trailhead, where you can choose from six intertwining trails, from a moderate 3-mile run or a more aggressive 15-mile trek. Like most foothills runs, expect wildflowers, wildlife, and sunshine. When you’re done dusting up the trail, head back into historic downtown Evergreen to visit the famed Little Bear, a dusty biker bar with decades of bras strung from the ceiling. Mathews/Winters Park You get perfect views of Red Rocks from Mathews/Winters trails. David Keyzer Always a classic and within easy distance of downtown, Mathews/Winters Park, nestled alongside Red Rocks Park and amphitheater, is a must do for locals and out-of-towners alike. Just off I-70, it offers an escape from the hustle and bustle of downtown Denver. Take the first right into the well-marked parking lot, where you can stretch and ensure your water is full and sunscreen is on, because once you cross the stream, it’s a pretty exposed run. The path quickly connects with Red Rocks Trail; run it to the end and return back along the Morrison Slide Trail to check off 6.5 miles. Beware of rattlesnakes and signs indicating usage for bikes and horses. Right down the street from this trail-running mecca is the Apex Trail, accessed from the Heritage Square parking lot off Highway 93 just north of I-70.   Written by Aaron Bible for RootsRated.

Backpacking season may be winding down, but that doesn’t mean it’s over yet. While we’ve now lost summer’s long days and t-shirt temperatures, fall camping trips have benefits of their own: scenery speckled with red and gold trees, fewer crowds, and more permit availability. But with winter just around the corner, you’ll want to get on one of these trails soon (and don’t forget to bring that extra layer and rain cover for your pack). Here, five of the best late-season backpacking trips in Washington —because there's still time to get in one last hurrah before you have to wait for next season. 1. The Enchantments The Enchantments offer some of the best scenery in Washington. Nate B With sparkling blue-green alpine lakes, granite peaks, waterfalls, and mountain vistas, the Enchantments are filled to the brim with some of the most inspiring scenery in the Pacific Northwest. Which is exactly what makes winning a permit via the lottery system to visit during the high season so competitive. But there is a way around the whole permit hassle: Visit between mid-October and mid-June, and you won’t need one. Going to the Enchantments in autumn also means the forests will be all the more spectacular thanks to the larch trees, which are conifers with a deciduous-esque twist. Around mid-October the larch pine needles turn from green to gold, before they are blown off by winter’s storms. 2. Iron Peak Loop The view of Mount Stuart from Iron Peak is impressive. brewbooks Even when fall's showers drench Seattle, it is sometimes possible to find drier ground just on the other side of the Cascades. The 14.5-mile Iron Peak Loop , near Salmon La Sac, is a great option for a weekend backpacking trip when other hikes closer to the city seem too drippy. The trail ascends to a rocky ridge, from which you’ll be able to take in mountain views as you scramble along, including ones of Mount Stuart. Or, if you’re looking for something shorter in the same area, try the 9-mile hike to Lake Ingalls , one of the most popular treks in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. 3. Navajo Pass Also on the other side of the Cascades by way of Snoqualmie Pass, Navajo Pass is another good option if you’re looking for clearer skies. The 11-mile hike will take you alongside the bubbling Safford Creek, up a series of steep switchbacks, and through forests flavored with red and yellow fall foliage. And then comes the views from the top of the pass, of Mount Stuart and the surrounding Stuart Range. The best place to camp is the large meadow about five miles from the trailhead, from which you can scramble up other peaks in the area if you want an additional challenge the next day. 4. Blanca Lake Blanca Lake's turquoise waters draw quite the crowd in the summer. For a more peaceful experience, try visiting in fall. Amy Salowitz Blanca Lake ’s turquoise-blue water is no less than stunning. In summer, its beauty attracts some of the biggest crowds found on any trail in the area, so if you prefer a little more solitude while on the trail, try visiting in fall instead. The 7.5-mile hike is easily done as a day trip from Seattle, but the area is so pretty that it also makes for nice weekend retreat. There are camping sites all around Virgin Lake, which is about 0.6 miles from Blanca Lake. Just keep in mind that the trail’s high point is 4,600 feet, so you’ll want to get out here before the winter’s snow hits. 5. White Pass to Chinook Pass Soak up fantastic views throughout this 28-mile excursion. Robert Ashworth These two mountain passes are two of the prettiest in the state, and the 28 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail that connect them are among the best of the whole route. Hike from White Pass to Chinook Pass in the autumn and the fiery maples and cottonwoods you’ll encounter along the way will add to the visual splendor. While 28 miles is quite a lot to pack into one weekend, the trail is relatively flat and well marked, and there are plenty of places to camp along the way. Plus, you’ll be treated to glorious alpine vistas, including views of Goat Rocks, Mount St. Helens, and Mount Rainier, which is sure to keep the stoke running high. The National Forest Foundation promotes the enhancement and public enjoyment of the 193-million-acre National Forest System. By directly engaging Americans and leveraging private and public funding, the NFF improves forest health and Americans’ outdoor experiences. The NFF’s programs inform millions of Americans about the importance of these treasured landscapes. Each year, the NFF restores fish and wildlife habitat, plants trees in areas affected by fires, insects and disease, improves recreational opportunities, and enables communities to steward their National Forests and Grasslands. Learn more at www.nationalforests.org. Written by Samantha Larson for RootsRated.