10 Adventures to Make the Most of Spring and Summer in Portland

Every river forms its own world. Every waterway has a different character—from the gentle creek near where I grew up to the wild and scenic rivers of the American West. As anyone who loves waterways knows: Rivers can transport us, both physically and mentally, to new places. The Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande are home to some of the most remote waters in the lower 48. Fifteen hundred foot canyon walls, weather-stained by millennia, create twilight far before sunset. Between the canyons, the Chihuahuan Desert wraps between weathered buttes and tumbled outcroppings. The river, dusky with sediment, curls through it all. My friends and I put on the Rio Grande at Heath Canyon in January 2017. Over the course of a morning, gear exploded out of the minivan before slowly finding its way into dry bags and onto packrafts. Everyone packed slowly, eyeing one another’s gear choices, asking unanswerable questions. “Do I really need a rain jacket?” “I don’t need this many batteries for my camera,” I said. I did not bring enough batteries. “How many fleeces do I really need?” said Robby, who needed to borrow layers throughout the trip. We wanted a wilderness experience, to be surrounded by the desert and reliant on the river. Within a few hours, we found what we were looking for. The desert sun poured down, and the canyon walls rose around us almost immediately. Day 1—entering the first canyons. Richard Forbes The plan was to run 84-miles of river over the course of eleven days. It can be done far faster, but we weren’t looking to hurry. We floated for long stretches without paddling, surrounded by the quiet enormity of a desert river. We took rest days and explored dry side canyons. We spent long hours around campfires catching up and talking about the future. We took our sweet time, much like the river itself. The Rio Grande, through the Lower Canyons, is not a fast river. There are, on average, only one or two rapids per day, though small riffles form at every riverbend. We didn’t bring any research on the rapids, preferring to blindly read and run. Thundering water reverberated off the canyon walls, warning us about each rapid long before we arrived. We would run them one at a time, paddles thrashing, our packrafts bucking through rocky chutes. While most canoe the Lower Canyons (or raft at higher water), we were continually glad to have the more maneuverable packrafts. At 600 cfs (cubic feet per second), they allowed us to run rapids that we would have needed to portage with any other boat. Between the rapids, the river forms gently flowing flatwater lined almost entirely by river cane. This invasive river cane (Arundo donax) is a recent addition to the area and at its worst, siphons off up to 30% of the Rio Grande’s flow and forms an impenetrable barrier along both banks, often reaching 10 feet into the river. Once in place, it locks sediment into the banks and gradually straightens and constricts the river channel. For boaters, the river cane is changing the landscape along the river. Several evenings, we found ourselves forced to stay on the river past sunset before we could find an opening in the cane to make camp. Texan authorities are beginning to discuss ways to control the cane, but until they find a large scale solution, don’t plan to be picky on which campsites you choose. Day 3—the river cutting through the cane. Richard Forbes Deep in the canyons, we’d form small flotillas or drift along separately, sinking into the reverie of a river trip. But we couldn’t leave the outside world behind. One side is Mexico, the other is the United States. The border is an invisible presence, without fences and signs. The deepest channel of the Rio Grande marks the border along the southern edge of Texas (forming almost two-thirds of the total US-Mexican border) as it flows through urban jungles and remote desert canyons. On paper, boaters are not supposed to cross to the opposite side except in emergency situations. But during our 11 days on the river, we each made countless unauthorized crossings, from lunch breaks to campsites. While the cane often gave us no choice on where we’d sleep, the border, like many things in the backcountry, came to feel arbitrary. On the river, facing downstream, left was the US, right was Mexico. But if the river stopped flowing, we’d have had no idea which country was which. Day 5—near the hot springs. Richard Forbes When we told our friends and families about our plan to float along the border, their first questions were almost always, “is it safe?” These worries are legitimate. Drug smuggling occurs along the entire border, and the Lower Canyons are no different. But all of the locals we spoke to felt safe. Marcos, a retired park ranger, lives only a few miles from the border and has never used his house keys. Keith, a boatman who has floated the Lower Canyons 57 times, said his closest calls were not drug smugglers but an infected cut and an aggressive mountain lion. On our trip, we saw only three people in 11 days, all on the last day, who ended up inviting us to their fishing camp for a catfish fry. The most dangerous part of the Lower Canyons is not the border, but the isolation. To float the Lower Canyons is to be utterly alone. Visitors to this area must be competent and self-sufficient. My friends and I have years worth of combined backcountry experience, and are all certified in wilderness medicine. If something had gone wrong on our trip, there would have been very few opportunities for rescue. Day 6—a quiet float on the Rio Grande. Richard Forbes It’s impossible to talk about the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande without mentioning the proposed border wall. As surreal as it may seem, the American government has already conducted a bidding process, and roughly 20 companies will soon begin building prototypes in San Diego. This hypothetical wall could not be built in the river, nor between the river and the canyon walls. Instead, it would have to be built in the United States, up on the mesa, between all but a few Americans and the awe inspiring Lower Canyons, making recreational access difficult if not impossible. There are many reasons to oppose the wall, ranging from humanitarian and ethical concerns to environmental conservation. A wall would require absurdly massive infrastructure development in such a fragile area, necessitating work camps and new access roads. In building such infrastructure, a unique desert ecosystem would be fragmented, jeopardizing hundreds of endangered and threatened animals and plants. Multiple locals informed us that, “There are already walls along the border, and they’re 1,500 feet tall” and “We don’t need a wall, we need more bridges”. Day 8—drifting in the twilight. Richard Forbes Day after day, my friends and I floated through the desolate desert, seemingly empty but bursting with life. From the water, we looked up at the wilderness surrounding us, our boats gently turning in the breeze, any ideas of the wall distant and incomprehensible. Somewhere beneath us, in the muddy water, lay the border, impossible to ignore and impossible to see. Something so important feels like it should be visible. But what should it look like? A 30 foot concrete wall? A fence with “keep out” signs and razor wire? Or maybe a river, flooding and receding through the seasons, overrunning its banks and changing its course, is the best marker for the border, and ought to teach us a lesson. The border isn’t a line on a map. The border is a region and a state of mind. And the border is worth visiting, if just for a short time. On day 9, we decided to do a night float. We relaxed all day and put on the river in the late afternoon. We floated for a few hours before making a leisurely dinner on a warm boulder in the sun. A herd of desert bighorn precariously picked their way along the opposite canyon wall. The world sank into twilight, then into night. Soon after, the moon came up. We climbed into our boats and pushed off into the black. We turned off our headlamps. Thick clouds passed over the moon, throwing shadows and deeper darkness. We navigated by sound, the cool breeze rustling the river cane, the water lapping against our packrafts. I knew my friends were all within a few hundred feet, but I still felt utterly alone. No one spoke. Animals scurried through the underbrush along the river. The boat lurched and accelerated down a small rapid I couldn’t see. I fought off the urge to turn on my headlamp. Waves splashed my hands. The canyon walls were black against the stars. I floated between the United States and Mexico. Disoriented by the darkness, I finally forgot about the border and about the greater world in general. There was only the river, curling through the desert. If you’re interested in learning more about our trip, the Lower Canyons, and the border wall, feel free to check out my website, where I’m working on a documentary. Details for the trip, because they can be hard to find: Seasonality: October to May (the highest water is in the fall). Don’t do it in the summer. Miles: 84 Days necessary: 7 or longer Whitewater: III+ to IV depending on flow Water: Drink out of the Rio Grande and fill up at seasonal springs along the river. River Flow: Check the Rio Grande Village USGS water gauge. Over 200 cfs is easily runnable, over 1000 is high water and might be safer in a larger raft. Put in: Heath Canyon (private land owned by Heath Canyon Ranch). In 2017, fees were ~$10 for access, ~$5 a day for parking. Take out: Dryden Crossing (private land owned by Harrison Ranch - contact Jon Tom Lowrance). In 2017, fees were $30 per vehicle and $10 per person. Shuttle: 4 hours (160 miles), involving some rough dirt roads near the takeout. Various shuttles are available, all for over $300, which may be worth it, as most waive the private land access fees. Permitting: $12 backcountry use permit available at any visitor center in Big Bend National Park. Hot Springs: Can be found immediately after Hot Springs Rapid (mile 40.7) on the Mexican side. Pro tip: Fish for catfish using a plastic bottle with a handle, attached with strong line or cord to a big hook covered in “stinkbait”. Throw it in the river before you set off every day. It’ll get stuck in the cane constantly, but if you’re patient, you’ll catch a catfish and can have an unforgettable dinner. List of Required Items: Personal Flotation (PFD’s) for each participant and one extra 1 extra paddle per raft, 1 extra paddle total if canoeing or kayaking Human waste management system Patch kit (if in inflatables) Fire pan with 2 inch minimum rim Trash management system

For those of us who swim, paddle, fish, hunt, or simply just enjoy the flowing waters of Central Texas, no water means no play. While aquifers—those vast underground rivers—remain mysterious and unseen far below us, they have a huge impact on our everyday life. Not just for drinking and showering, but for recreation as well. In addition to water playgrounds like Barton Springs, take Jacob’s Well in Wimberley, for example, one of the finest swimming holes in Central Texas. For the first time in history, the spring, which is fed by the Trinity Aquifer, dried up completely in the year 2000. Then it happened again in 2008. Years ago, it would be impossible to descend more than two feet below the surface because the spring would bubble you up with incredible force. Parents would toss their children into the well smiling and without fear, confident they’d bob right back up. Some historians even say that in past centuries the spring would shoot as high as 30 feet above ground! This was all because of the strong aquifer flow. But now, due to major development in the area as well as drought and overpumping, all we have are distant memories of the past and ongoing measures in the present to address water conservation and quality of the aquifer. Yet, even attempts like these don’t ensure protection. On Feb. 10, a furious crowd overflowed the Wimberley Community Center to demand that state Rep. Jason Isaac (R-Dripping Springs) put an end to a commercial groundwater-pumping project in Hays County. The project is planning to pump 5.3 million gallons of water each day from the Trinity Aquifer and, for a pretty penny, sell more than a million gallons a day to the city of Buda. But action to stop the project remains to be seen. People packed the Wimberley Community Center Feb. 11 during a town hall meeting with Rep. Jason Isaac, R-Dripping Springs, to demand a stop to the commercial groundwater-pumping project in Hays County. Lani Alvarez Underlying this conflict is a critical issue highly likely to boil up in increasing frequency across Texas as water resources diminish and the population swells. “No natural resource issue has greater significance for the future of Texas than water,” says Dr. Andrew Sansom, executive director of The Meadows Center for Water and the Environment. Everyone knows rain in Central Texas is sporadic, unpredictable and, more often than not, infrequent. Now stop for a moment and imagine if we had to rely solely on rain to keep our rivers and creeks flowing. For almost two decades now, Texas has suffered under record drought. And as we already are seeing in many spots, some of Austin's best paddling trails may become a lot less enjoyable in shallow, still water. Fortunately for us, aquifers capture and store rain and release water over time into our rivers, streams, and springs. And yet, such aquifers are threatened by projects like the one near Wimberley. The view from a glass-bottom boat tour on Aquarena Springs, which is fed by the Edwards Aquifer. Lani Alvarez “Think about Spring Lake  in San Marcos and  Barton Springs in Austin,” says Louie Bond, editor-in-chief of Texas Parks & Wildlife magazine. “All are fed by these underground bodies of water—all are in danger of drying up if we empty the aquifers.” Even though the Trinity aquifer, which the controversial project is targeting, may seem relatively distant from Barton Springs, it is intricately linked. The Trinity aquifer feeds the Blanco river, and during droughts, the Blanco feeds Barton Springs much of its water, according to Nico Hauwert, senior hydrogeologist for the City of Austin Watershed Protection Department. To put this connection in real context, "If the baseflow to the Blanco river near Wimberley were to cease," reported Hauwert, "Barton Springs could dry up in three months." The only place this endangered species occurs is deep within the Edwards Aquifer. It is completely blind, as its eyes are not needed in the darkness of the aquifer. Lani Alvarez  All aquifers in our region affect our outdoor recreation. Swimmers, divers, paddlers, anglers alike—all are impacted by the water that is or is not in Central Texas aquifers. Additionally, there's the impact this would have on endangered species that are entirely dependent on these springs, such as the Texas Blind Salamander that lives only in the Edwards Aquifer. Whether you love diving into a deep well of water or simply observing the wildlife around you, this is an issue that affects you directly. So when will Central Texas water playgrounds dry up? It seems that's up to us. Here are just a few ways you can do your part to help preserve our aquifers: Voice your concern about aggressive pumping. Visit SaveOurWells.com and consider signing this petition. If you're in Buda or Wimberley, or almost anywhere in Hays County, you may be directly affected by the current controversy over Electro Purification's aggressive water pumping from the Trinity aquifer. Learn about your aquifer authority or groundwater conservation district. You vote for your board members—find out who shares your goals for a healthy aquifer and who might have less-than-pure motivations for controlling how much is pumped. Grow food, not lawns. Today lawns are the largest modern water wasters. How about planting some butterfly- or bird- attracting plants instead? Or food for yourself. When your neighbors see the wonderland you’ve created, they’ll want one of their own. Xeriscape. Xeriscaping is a method of landscaping and gardening that utilizes water-conserving techniques. More than half of our fresh water supplies go to landscaping, so this method is highly promoted in drought-sensitive Central Texas. Join a citizen science group, such as the Texas Stream Team, that is dedicated to learning about and protecting the 191,000 miles of waterways we have here in Texas. Read up on other ways to conserve water, such as the Water—Use it Wisely website, which offers nearly 200 water-saving tips that you can download, print, and even share on social media.

These are the kind of articles that keep me up at night. Whittling down a list of Colorado’s best day hikes to a mere twenty is a daunting task. There are literally hundreds of hikes that would fit the bill, and none of them would be wrong. If that comes off like a big, fat, humblebrag, well it is. The wealth of quality hiking adventures in Colorado is nearly limitless. Some hikes offer instant glory right from the parking lot (such as Brainard Lake in the Indian Peaks) while others take liberty with the definition of “day” hike, (such as the 16+ miles to Storm King Peak in the Grenadier Range, possible to knock out in a single day by strong hikers). What makes a hike great is in the eye of beholder, but this collection of adventures is a worthy compilation that showcases the best natural settings in Colorado: towering mountains, crystal-clear alpine lakes, jagged rock faces, expansive views, and good wildlife sighting potential. A personal preference for longer days out (between 4 - 8 hours) is reflected in many of these adventures. With that in mind, these hikes offer a variety of wilderness environments across the state and range from simple on-trail walks to difficult—yet non-technical—scrambling (assuming the seasonal conditions are free of ice and snow). Please feel free to add some of your own favorites not listed here in the comments! 1. Longs Peak - Keyhole Route Difficulty: Hard The Keyhole Route before transitioning to the class 3 scrambling on Longs Peak. Note the shelter at the base of the notch Katie Dills Let’s get the obvious out of the way. At 14,255 feet, Longs Peak is the 13th highest mountain in the state and one of the most visited peaks with a notoriously elusive summit. The National Park Service estimates about 15,000 people attempt to get to the top of Longs each year, with only 50% of them actually reaching the highest point. The 15-mile roundtrip, 5,000+ feet of elevation gain, thrilling exposure, and unpredictable weather add up to create a mountain whose mood can welcome or thwart even the most experienced hikers. Passing through the Keyhole itself is like shifting worlds into a mountainous kingdom hidden from sight during the 5.5 mile approach through forests and boulder fields. The trail is well-marked and can be crowded on summer weekends, but Longs nevertheless delivers on the promise of incredible views and worthy terrain. 2. Mount Bierstadt Difficulty: Moderate Mount Bierstadt’s welcoming slopes as seen from Guanella Pass. Patricia Henschen A common mistake many aspiring Colorado hikers make is to target Longs Peak before they have the fitness or experience to stack the odds of a successful summit in their favor. Here’s where Mount Bierstadt comes into play. The popular 14,060’ peak off of Guanella Pass near Georgetown is an accommodating 6-mile round trip along a well-maintained trail. It’s a great starter mountain for those hoping to hike all of Colorado’s 58 14,000’ summits (the eponymous 14ers). More experienced hikers can test their mettle on Sawtooth Ridge, a 1-mile stretch of Class 3 rock that connects the summit of Bierstadt with the shoulder of 13,842’ Mount Spaulding and eventually 14,264’ Mount Evans. The typical descent back to Guanella Pass involves bushwhacking through moose-infested swampland, where 7-foot tall willows create a natural garden maze. 3. The Base of Lizard Head Peak via Lizard Head Pass Difficulty: Easy to Moderate Lizard Head is the throat of an extinct volcano. Jim Good Lizard Head Peak is one of the toughest 13,000’ mountains in Colorado to summit, thanks to the chossy, loose, 400’ vertical tower that requires 5.8-graded climbing on poor rock to reach its highest point. Thankfully, this hike follows a good trail 3.5 miles one-way to the base of the tower—no climbing required. The adventure begins atop the paved Lizard Head Pass, about 15 minutes from the town of Telluride. Though it’s a 7-mile out-and-back, the trail starts off nearly flat as it wanders through alternating alpine meadows and pockets of pine forest. As views open up, the grandeur of the San Juan Mountains unveils itself, including the impressive profiles of the Wilson Massif. Standing at the base of the crumbling tower (an extinct volcanic pipe) makes the fact that it was originally climbed in 1920 even more impressive. 4. Black Canyon of the Gunnison Difficulty: Moderate to Hard The imposing rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Matthew Macpherson Black Canyon of the Gunnison, an oft-overlooked national park, flips the script by bringing you down rather than up. Oh, and the “trails” are more like suggested scrambles rather than fully developed hiking paths. The easiest of these is the Class 3 Gunnison Route, a vague idea of a trail that has an 80-foot section with a handheld chain for support. It drops down 1,800’ in one mile, so what it lacks in total distance it makes up for in thrilling scrambling. Rivers flow deep along the canyon floor, a shadowy place where the towering walls feel like the entrance to the netherworld. Wandering the canyon base is so marvelously unique for Colorado, it deserves a visit for adventurous hikers who aren’t afraid to get a little dirty on the way down. 5. Bison Peak Difficulty: Easy but Long A hiker in the midst of the incredible rock towers on Bison Peak. James Dziezynski At 12,431 feet, Bison Peak is a collection of spectacular rock towers built up from a flower-festooned alpine meadow. The Class 1 hiking trail is 11 miles out-and-back starting near the Tarryall Reservoir in the Tarryall Mountains. The gradual hike up to treeline tends to go quickly, and it can get hot and dry in the summer—bring extra water! Cresting treeline opens up views of the wobbly, blocky, stone towers, some of which are over 150’ tall and seemingly transported from the Moab desert. Thankfully, the summit is a half-mile hike off the main trail across grassy meadows with a few easy hills or rock scrambles to the top. Once a bit of a secret, this unique peak has gained popularity in recent years, but is nonetheless rarely ever crowded. 6. Star Dune at Great Sand Dunes National Park Difficulty: Easy Great Sand Dunes National Park. NPS/Patrick Myers While most of the hikes in this list ascend mountains, it would be folly to ignore the fun, open-ended hiking at Great Sand Dunes National Park (especially from October-May, when the park is much cooler than in the summer). Star Dune is the largest of them all, standing at about 700 feet. In the early spring when the rivers run through the fine sand basin, the landscape transforms into a living, breathing desert in a compact package. Above the dunes stand the Sangre de Cristo Peaks, many towering over 13,000’. Wandering among the dunes can be as long or as short as you like it to be—consider it your own personal sandbox. 7. Lion Lakes at Rocky Mountain National Park Difficulty: Moderate The Lion Lakes are a chain of small pools in a pristine basin. Mount Alice looms in the background. James Dziezynski The Lion Lakes are a chain of high alpine pools in the cirque between 13,310’ Mount Alice and 13,579’ Chiefs Head Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. Accessed by the less-crowded Wild Basin Trailhead, this 12 mile out-and-back is mostly on the shared Thunder Lake Trail (itself a fine destination) before eventually splitting off and fading into one of Colorado’s most exquisite backcountry basins. Though the trail eventually fades out, navigation is relatively easy: follow the lakes and connecting streams and waterfalls up to the next tier. Wildflowers abound and the pristine meadows have all the elegant natural charm of Rocky Mountain National Park’s best settings—minus the crowds. Don’t let the high mileage fool you, most of the trail is smooth, flat, and easy to cruise. 8. Pyramid Peak Difficulty: Hard Pyramid Peak’s famous Green Gully. James Dziezynski Pyramid Peak (14,018’) near Aspen is the most difficult day hike on this list—even more so than Longs Peak. While most hikers tackle the Class 3 (or Class 4, in some opinions) without any technical gear, it’s not unheard of to bring along a rope and harnesses. With good route finding, however, the standard route will stay at a tricky but solid Class 3. Most hikers start in the blackness of early morning (3 am is a reasonable start time), chugging up a steep headwall to an exciting scramble to the top (roughly a mile). Mountain goats are regular spectators, and the rock is solid for Elk Range terrain, especially in contrast to the neighboring Maroon Bells. Views from the flat summit look out over the aforementioned Maroon Bells and several other impressive Elk Range Peaks. The round trip is about 8.2 miles, but even strong hikers should give this one 8-10 hours. And bring a helmet! 9. Boulder’s Guardians of the Flatirons Difficulty: Moderate A walk above the Flatirons is a great way to have a true mountain adventure right from the city of Boulder. Michael W Murphy The trio of peaks that stand over Boulder’s iconic Flatirons make for an excellent day hike, which can be done as a loop or a point to point (approximately 12 or 10 miles respectively). Hikers can start at several different trailheads, all within the civilized confines of the city of Boulder. A popular route starts at Gregory Canyon Trailhead near Chautauqua and begins by ascending 3.2 miles to 8,150’ Green Mountain. Next, drop down to the Green-Bear Trail to the West Ridge of Bear Peak and ascend to the 8,460’ summit, where exposed, iron-rich rock offers the best 360 degree views along the traverse. On a clear day, one can see from Denver to Longs Peak to Pikes Peak. The highest and least-visited of the mountains is 8,549’ South Boulder Peak, whose boulder-adorned summit has great views to the west but is obstructed by trees to the east. Return via the Mesa Trail at the foot of the mountains back to Gregory Canyon or make it a point-to-point by leaving a second vehicle at the South Mesa Trailhead. Editor's Note: Parts of the Mesa Trail/Bear Canyon will be closed for trail work on weekdays May-September 2017. The trails will be open on weekends. 10. San Luis Peak Difficulty: Moderate San Luis is one of the best walk-up 14ers, especially in early summer when many small streams run and wildflowers are in full bloom. James Dziezynski 14,014’ San Luis Peak is a nice, long day hike (13.5 miles from the Stewart Creek Trailhead) through one of Colorado’s most vibrant basins. The gradually ascending trail is mellow, Class 1 terrain that starts in a piney forest, passes ponds and pools, and eventually opens up to large meadows with trickling streams, dense beds of colorful flowers, and wide-open views. It’s rarely crowded, despite being one of the 14ers, and the rocky trail at the top is welcoming and easy to follow. Views are understandably incredible, partially due to the relatively remote location of this San Juan mountain Very little manmade evidence is seen from the summit. It’s not technical, it’s not burly, but it sure is lovely. 11. Lost Man Lake Difficulty: Moderate Lost Man Lake with UN 13,001—Colorado’s lowest official 13er—in the background. Fredlyfish4 The trailhead for Lost Man Pass / Lost Man Lake is one mile west of the summit of Independence Pass. It’s easy to find, but note that the road is usually only open from late May to early October when snows close it down. This hike is roughly 7 miles out-and-back (depending on how much wandering you do around the lake itself) and follows the Lost Man Loop Trail through a rocky, rugged, basin. The chunky glacial rock debris is offset by serene lakes on the south side of Lost Man Pass, most notably Independence Lake. Keep hiking up Lost Man Pass up to 12,850’, where the dark, inky waters of Lost Man Lake reveal themselves on the north side. It’s a great place to have a mountain picnic or a chilly dip. Peak baggers have a lot of options in the area, including 13,301’ Geissler Mountain’s rolling ridges and 13,711’ Twining Peak. 12. Mount Elbert Difficulty: Moderate Summit views from Mount Elbert. Michael W Murphy Colorado’s highest peak (and the highest in the entire Rocky Mountain Chain) stands at 14,433’ but luckily it’s a friendly hike via its standard route, the Mount Elbert Trail. This 9 mile out-and-back follows a solid trail from forest to treeline, where hikers get acquainted with the thin air and the possible heartbreak of a pair of false summits. Fear not, the actual summit is not far past the second false summit, and the wide, flat apex has a collection of wide shelters. There is very little exposure along the way, though the views of the town of Leadville and the Sawatch Range are mighty impressive. Worth noting: Colorado’s second highest peak, 14,420’ Mount Massive is just across the street from the Mount Elbert Trailhead. The duo make a nice two-pack punch for an ambitious weekend. 13. Mica Basin Difficulty: Easy to Moderate Mica Lake and the Mica Lake Basin as seen from “Middle Agnes” with one of the two Little Agnes Peaks in the distance. James Dziezynski The roughly 3.8 mile hike (7.6 mile round trip) to Mica Lake starts from the Slavonia Trailhead near Steamboat Springs and is a wonderful introduction to the Park Range. The Zirkel Wilderness is one of the lushest mountain regions in Colorado thanks to its northern location and relatively low elevation. The same storms that keep the rivers flowing provide the ski area’s legendary winter powder. As a result, the area is rich with flowers, flora, and colorful grasses and willows. Mica Lake is a small, greenish blue pool that is a favorite with canines. Nearby summits can be hiked or scrambled up including Little Agnes Peak, a second Little Agnes Peak, Big Agnes Peak, and a scenic point between them not officially named but locally known as “Middle Agnes Peak”. Mica Basin is one of the best autumn day hikes thanks to the variety of colorful foliage. 14. Argentine Pass Difficulty: Easy to Moderate Argentine Pass as seen from Mount Wilcox. If you look closely, there is a Jeep cruising up in the middle section of the road. Grays Peak (l), Torreys Peak (middle) and Mount Edwards (r) stand tall beyond the saddle. James Dziezynski Argentine Pass connects two basins, one accessed from Guanella Pass near Georgetown and a second accessed from the tiny mountain town of Montezuma near Keystone Resort. Both access points require a little 4x4 action to reach (stock SUVs should do fine either way). The eastern approach from Guanella has a parking area at the mining ghost town of Waldorf, where a battered building that once housed the post office still stands. From here, a walk up to the 13,207’ pass is roughly 2 miles one-way up a 4x4 road (dedicated 4x4 vehicles can drive to the top of the pass). From the the Montezuma side, hikers take a 2.5 mile trail up from the less-developed Horseshoe Basin to the pass. From the top of the pass, peak baggers can carry on to grab 13,738’ Argentine Peak to the South or 13,850’ Mount Edwards to the north. An ambitious point-to-point with two cars offers a chance to grab the nearby 14ers, Grays and Torreys Peaks, with a descent to the popular Stevens Gulch Trailhead. 15. Peak 6 via the Colorado Trail Difficulty: Easy to Moderate The Colorado Trail below Peak 6 with Crystal Peak and Pacific Peak on the horizon. James Dziezynski The Tenmile Range is home to the Breckenridge Ski Area, but this lesser-known hike begins from the overflow parking area of Copper Mountain at the Colorado Trail trailhead. This beautiful section of the Colorado Trail ascends through a shady forest before emerging from treeline in roughly 3 miles to vast, open, mountain meadows and stellar views of Copper Mountain to the west and the town of Breckenridge to the east. It is easy to get off trail and walk along the gently rounded hills to gain the ridge between Peaks 6 and 5 and take in the views—the Gore Range to the far west is notable. This is a great trail for a more casual day with friends and dogs, as it never gets too steep and the rewards are well worth the 7 mile round trip. Ambitious hikers can traverse along the ridge north or south if they want more summits or if they want to explore the Breck Ski hills in the offseason. Strong hikers who want a unique point-to-point can traverse past Peak 10 to Crystal Peak and descend all the way to Mayflower Gulch parking area—an adventure that snags 6 named mountains! 16. The Devil’s Causeway Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult The Devil's Causeway is a section of rock only a few feet wide elevated 1,500 feet from the ground. Robin Carroccia If the Spinner of All Lies has affixed his name to a geological feature, you know it’s going to be interesting. The Devil’s Causeway sits in the Flattop Wilderness, an isolated patch of mountains that are accessed from the town of Yampa between I-70 and Steamboat Springs. The hike itself is a nice, 6 mile round trip starting from the East Fork Trail. The namesake feature is a non-technical but heady 50-foot stretch of rock that narrows to 3 feet wide and has drops of 60-80 feet off either side. Depending on your reaction to exposure, this is either a neat walk along a solid spine of rock or a belly-crawling, sphincter-clenching ordeal—or maybe somewhere in between. Even if you opt out of the traverse, a visit to the Flattops is worth the time, as it’s one of Colorado’s less-known mountain areas, and the rock walls and tabled-off summits are quite spectacular. 17. Ice Lakes Basin Difficulty: Moderate One of the upper feeder lakes and old cabin above Ice Lakes Basin, seen from Golden Horn. James Dziezynski Silverton is known for spectacular mountain scenery, and Ice Lakes Basin out of South Mineral Campground offers a snapshot of what makes the San Juan range in southwest Colorado so special. This 7-mile round trip follows a steep but steady trail through the forest to a series of shimmering, blue alpine lakes, including Island Lake. Creeks cascade through the green valleys and roll over rounded rock walls, painting them a mixture of green, black, and grey. The imposing “sinking ship” profile of 13,780’ Golden Horn dominates the skyline—from the perspective of the lakes, it’s hard to believe this cracked and crumbling peak is only a Class 2 scramble! Nearby Pilot Knob, 13,738’, is a shattered comb of rock that is rarely climbed (and usually just by mountaineers knocking off Colorado’s 200 highest mountains; Pilot Knob is the 131st highest). There are also smatterings of mine and cabin ruins at the upper lakes, a testament to the area’s mining history. 18. Sharkstooth Trail Difficulty: Moderate Sharkstooth Trail is a great day hike in a region of Colorado many overlook. jmangum2 The La Plata Mountains can be found in southern Colorado and are normally accessed from the small town of Mancos. The Sharkstooth Trail is an excellent way to tour this lonely chain of distinct peaks. Starting from the Sharkstooth Trailhead, a hike up to 12,000’ Sharkstooth Pass and back (4 miles round trip) may satisfy your mountain cravings. From the start you’ll see the remarkable alternating red and white stripes of 13,232’ Hesperus Mountain, one of the four sacred Navajo mountains. Approaching Sharkstooth Pass, the namesake 12,462’ Sharkstooth Peak juts out from an ocean of talus rock, but the trail remains easy to follow with good footing. Those looking for a bigger day can traverse the basin on the east side of the pass 2.7 miles to the next pass, where the Colorado/Highline Trail continues to the north above Cumberland Basin. 19. Rattlesnake Arches - McInnis Canyons National Conservation Area Difficulty: Moderate The incredible, airy arches at McInnis are one of the most photogenic areas of Colorado. John Strother The Colorado Plateau in Mesa County is home to McInnis Canyons, an area many Coloradans have no idea exists. This spectacular desert playground has the second highest concentration of natural sandstone arches in the world—only nearby Arches National Park has more. There is a lot of open terrain to explore, but a tour on the Rattlesnake Arches Trail (starting from Black Ridge Road) is the best way to take it all in. The arches here resemble prehistoric fossils, pockmarked and elegantly curved. A full out-and-back is about 7 miles, though most hikers detour and explore the many formations along the trails. Crowds are low and the landscape is incredible, so take your time as you walk among these natural wonders. 20. James Peak Difficulty: Moderate James Peak’s approach above St. Marys Glacier. James Dziezynski Finally, we come to the tastefully named James Peak. This 13,301’ summit is a nice walk-up that is 8 miles round trip as an out-and-back. The appeal of the mountain isn’t just its proximity to the Denver/Boulder metro area—its standard route also ascends one of Colorado’s last remaining glaciers, the St. Marys Glacier. The glacier (which has been downgraded as a “semi-permanent snowfield”) is safe for foot travel, as it lacks deep crevasses. A tiny ski area once operated year-round on the glacier from 1930-1986, and the remains of the ski lift can be seen on the way up to the trailhead parking. Above the glacier, the approach to James crosses a long, flat section before ascending up a Class 2 trail along the rounded slopes. Views from the top look out into the Winter Park ski area to the west, the Indian Peaks to the north, and the Front Range to the south.

Weekend backpacking trips are one of the greatest gifts of the summer. You can get so much in just two to three days: a breathtaking vista, a serene mountain lake, a secluded old-growth forest. The only problem is that all too soon you’re back at the trailhead, preparing for the long drive home and wondering how you’ll get through five more days before your next big adventure. Usually, this is when hikers start to google “Appalachian Trail Town Guide” or “PCT Gear Checklist,” but if you aren’t quite ready to quit your job and sell your house, there are other long trail options, ones that can be squeezed in alongside life’s many other responsibilities. And since these trails don’t get the same press as the jewels of the triple crown, the odds of getting a week of breathtaking vistas all to yourself are even better. 1. Benton-Mackaye Trail A 270-foot suspension bridge crossing the Toccoa River on the Benton MacKaye Trail in North Georgia. Richard States: Georgia, North Carolina, Tennessee Season: Year round Duration: 2-4 weeks Learn more: BMTA.org The Appalachian Trail is widely considered one of the most social trails in America, and no wonder as thousands of hikers attempt a thru-hike every year. But if you’re looking to experience what the AT might have been like before its fame grew far and wide, look no further than the 300-mile Benton-Mackaye Trail. It shares its southern terminus (Springer Mountain) with the AT, but quickly veers to the west, deep into the Appalachian Mountains and away from the crowds. Here you’ll find the small wonders this corner of the world is known for: deep, lush forests, blooming wildflowers, and cool, bubbling creeks. While this trail is well-maintained by a devoted group of volunteers, amenities are kept at a minimum compared to other trails in the region. The good news is that a lack of established shelters and infrequent signage mean that you’re even more likely to have this trail all to yourself. (If you only have time for a section hike, be sure to check out the best Benton Mackaye day hikes in Georgia and in Tennessee/North Carolina.) 2. John Muir Trail Camp vibes along the John Muir Trail Rick McCharles States: California Season: Summer Duration: 2-3 weeks Learn more: PCTA.org The granddaddy of them all, the John Muir Trail offers a wholly unique adventure for intrepid backpackers: 211 miles of trail without a single road crossing. Starting at a mere 4,000 feet in Yosemite Valley, you’ll soon leave behind the crowds as you climb up above the treeline and into the high country where no fewer than eight mountain passes await you. Make no mistake about it, the remoteness (not to mention the difficulty) of this trail requires serious training and planning, so be prepared to cross snowfields, wade through swollen rivers, and safeguard your food from the area’s notorious bears. The majority of JMT hikers are headed southbound, but you’ll still see plenty of northbound hikers along the way, as the PCT shares 170 miles of trail through the High Sierras. The only real downside to this trail is its popularity as most reservations are snapped up months in advance of hiking season. 3. Lone Star Hiking Trail The Lone Star Trail as it passes through the Stubblefield Lake Recreation Area Adrian Delgado2012 State: Texas Season: Year round Duration: 1 week Learn more: LoneStarTrail.org Leave behind the noise and crowds of Houston and travel an hour north to find the solitude and quiet you’ve been craving on the Lone Star Hiking Trail. Tucked away in the Sam Houston National Forest, this 128-mile pine needle-cushioned footpath takes you deep into the backcountry along serene, bubbling creeks and over gentle slopes. As you hike, you’ll wind your way through dense stands of magnolia trees and miles and miles of hardwoods, home to woodpeckers and bald eagles alike. This is one of the few long distance trails that can be hiked year-round, and might even be best in winter, when the scorching temperatures of Texas are moderated. Another bonus: no permit is required to get started, and maps can be downloaded for free at the volunteer-maintained website. 4. The Long Trail The Theron Dean Shelter on the Long Trail of Vermont dvs States: Vermont Season: Late spring through late fall Duration: 3 weeks Learn more: GreenMountainClub.org America’s obsession with thru-hiking may well have started with the Long Trail, the country’s oldest long-distance route, and the inspiration for the Appalachian Trail. Traveling the length of Vermont, the bulk of its 272 miles trace the ridges of the Green Mountains, traveling along remote streams and through alpine sedge, and climbing the state’s highest peaks: Camel’s Hump, Killington Peak, Mount Mansfield, and more. But this trail is known less for the views than as a rugged journey through a thick forest of hemlocks, eastern white pines, sugar maples, and balsam fir. Be aware that while this trail doesn’t reach the same elevations as its Western cousins, it offers significant terrain challenges for the novice and advanced hiker alike. Expect scrambling, slippery log crossings, and rough trails. Today, the LT shares 100 miles of trail with the AT, but while the latter stops midway through Maine, the LT takes you all the way to the Canadian border. 5. The Mid State Trail A Mid State Trail footbridge in Alan Seeger Natural Area of Rothrock State Forest Nicholas A. Tonelli States: Pennsylvania Season: Spring to fall Duration: 5-7 weeks Learn more: Hike-MST.org If you’re looking for something a little longer, and little wilder, check out the 522-mile Mid State Trail running straight down the middle of Pennsylvania. Straddling the Appalachians and the Allegheny plateau, this path is unusually solitary and remote, even as it brings you within spitting distance of established communities (and one or two ghost towns). It accomplishes this by keeping hikers above the fray, traveling from the highest knob and steepest ridgelines, across densely forested highlands, and up and around rolling hills. Like many of the trails in this region, the route is scattered with boulders of varying shapes and sizes, making it difficult to cover ground quickly. But, unlike those other trails, the secret’s not out on this one yet, and it’s a toss-up which you’ll see more of as you hike: bears or backpackers. 6. Ozark Highlands Trail The Ozarks in Autumn OakleyOriginals States: Arkansas Season: October through June Duration: 2 weeks Learn more: OzarkHighlandsTrail.com If your ideal wilderness trek is one where you won’t encounter another hiker for days on end, the Ozark Highlands Trail should be near the top of your list. But even if you start out in search of the trail’s peaceful valleys and lonely vistas you’ll stay for its smaller wonders: delicate waterfalls, remnants of bygone pioneers, and impressive rock formations, like the Narrs: a narrow catwalk of stone snaking along the Buffalo River. While reasonably well-marked, this trail is more rustic than most, so be prepared for your feet to get wet (and stay wet) during its many stream crossings. Fortunately, there are a number of ancient structures scattered along the way where you can air out and dry off. Procrastinating thru-hikers may rejoice that this one doesn’t require a special permit to get started, but know that the remoteness of the terrain and the difficulty of resupply (there are only two POs and no grocery stores along the way) mean it requires just as much, if not more, planning. 7. River to River Trail Illinois' Garden of the Gods State Park, one of the highlights along the River to River Trail Curtis Abert States: Illinois Season: Spring through fall Duration: 1-2 weeks Learn more: fs.usda.gov Even if you don’t have the time to hike the entire 6,800-mile American Discovery Trail, you can still tackle an important leg of it: the 160-mile River to River Trail travels across southern Illinois, from the Ohio River to the Mississippi. If you’ve never been to this part of the country, you’re in for a real treat. Towering slot canyons, sandstone sculpted bluffs, dense deciduous forests (hike this one in fall if you can), and, of course, sweeping views of two of the most iconic rivers of the Midwest are but a few of the treasures to be found along the way. While the forests surrounding this trail look untouched today, don’t be fooled, as you may be following an ancient wagon trail, long overgrown. A word of caution: since this trail is not maintained to the same standards that you’ll find in established wilderness areas, aspiring thru-hikers should come prepared with serious navigational skills. 8. Shore-to-Shore Trail Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore from above Josh Grenier States: Michigan Season: Spring through summer Duration: 2 weeks Learn more: MTRA.org Begin your adventure by dipping a toe into Lake Huron at one of two starting points on the eastern half of the 220-mile Shore-to-Shore Trail. As you travel west, wander through warbler territory, join up for a section of the 4,600-mile North Country Trail, and then skirt the more popular tourist destinations as the trail winds across the rolling hills that characterize the middle of the state. End your trip with a plunge into Lake Michigan via the steep bluffs of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. While there are many upsides to choosing this thru-hike, one downside is that heavy equestrian use can make this trail more challenging for those traveling by foot. Expect longer distances between established campsites (20-25 miles), deep grooves along the path, and maps that are more focused on the needs of thru-riders than thru-hikers. 9. Tahoe Rim Trail Overlooking the Desolation Wilderness Jeff P States: California and Nevada Season: July through September Duration: 1-2 weeks Learn more: TahoeRimTrail.org While Tahoe’s beaches are packed with tourists you’ll be high up on the ridgeline enjoying stunning vistas on this 165-mile loop around the lake’s perimeter. This one is anything but routine, traveling through densely wooded forests, up high mountain passes (there may be snow early in the season), and around the shores of shimmering lakes set against the moonscapes that are specific to this region. The TRT also shares a footpath with the Pacific Crest Trail for 50 miles through the Desolation Wilderness, offering ample opportunity to get some insider info before you plan next year’s big hike. Give yourself a minimum of a week to complete if you’re doing it all in one shot, or break it out into 14 separate day hikes and earn your Weekend Warrior stripes. Added bonus: since the TRT is a loop rather than an end-to-end thru-hike, transportation planning is a snap. 10. Wonderland Trail Encircling Mount Rainier for 93-miles, the Wonderland Trail is worthy of any backpacker's bucket list John Strother Located: Washington State Season: July through September Duration: 1-2 weeks Learn more: RootsRated.com/how-to-thru-hike-the-wonderland-trail Discover 93 miles of pure heaven circumventing Washington’s most iconic peak. Its jaw-dropping spectacles include fields ablaze with wildflowers of all colors, bridges hundreds of feet over raging rivers and waterfalls, and a new angle from which to see the mountain up close and personal every single day (at least as long as PNW’s infamous weather cooperates). While you’re not climbing Mt. Rainier (14,411 feet), expect significant elevation change (22,000 feet in all) as you climb up and over its many ridges. The Wonderland Trail’s reputation has grown in recent years from a local treasure to a national destination, but if you have a flexible schedule this might just be the perfect year to hike it. A glitch in the reservation system for 2016 means that all reservations are now first come first serve, making it easier than ever to secure a last-minute spot on a once-in-a-lifetime thru-hike. Written by Laura Lancaster for RootsRated.