3 Amazing Weekend Backpacking Loops in the Smokies

Across Great Smoky Mountains National Park, miles of interconnected trails meander through lush, green valleys, hug the banks of moss-laden, rocky creeks, and climb through thickets of mountain laurel and rhododendron to the blue-tinged mountain peaks. You could spend weeks backpacking through this rich landscape, but a weekend trip will also allow you to experience the best of the Smokies. To help you plan your visit, we’ve highlighted three backpacking loops that give you the Appalachian Trail, streamside and ridgeline campsites, killer views, and enough distance and elevation to satisfy your inner weekend warrior. Big Creek Loop Combining the best of frontcountry and backcountry camping, the Big Creek area on the northeastern tip of the park off I-40 offers something for every level of hiker. Tackle a 21.5-mile loop over big peaks or lower your mileage and elevation with a night at one of the sweetest creekside campsites in the park. Either way, you’ll hike the AT through some of the most scenic terrain in the Smokies. You will be in constant awe of the beauty on Big Creek Loop. Rock/Creek Roll into Big Creek Friday night to enjoy campground amenities like restrooms, dinner at a picnic table, and campsites with fire rings. You’ll be up early on Saturday to climb the Chestnut Branch Trail 2 miles to the Appalachian Trail. One of the shortest AT access points, the trail passes the remains of homesteads that pre-date the national park. Turn south on the AT and continue climbing 3.3 miles to the 0.6-mile Mt. Cammerer fire tower spur trail. At 4,928 feet, the tower overlooks the Pigeon River Gorge to the north and Mt. Sterling to the south. From the fire tower, it’s a moderate descent 2.1 miles to the Low Gap Trail. Take Low Gap 2.5 miles to campsite #37 at the Big Creek Trail junction. Right on the banks of Big Creek, you’d be hard pressed to find a more spacious backcountry site in the park. On Sunday, you can go big or go home, as they say. Going big means a hike up the Swallow Falls Trail 4 miles to the Mt. Sterling Ridge Trail. It’s another 1.4 miles and more climbing to an elevation of 5,842 feet on Mt. Sterling. Climb Sterling’s 60-foot steel fire tower for panoramic views of Cataloochee Valley, the Black Mountains, and the Southern Appalachians. Now, the downhill endurance test begins, with a 4,000-foot elevation loss over 6 miles on the Baxter Creek Trail. If you opt to go home, you can sleep in, savor your coffee by the campfire, and still have plenty of time to hike the moderate, 5-mile descent along Big Creek back to the campground, passing two stunning waterfalls and plenty of swimming holes along the way. Big Creek loop ends with a 4,000-foot elevation loss over 6 miles on the Baxter Creek Trail. virgntn2011 Big Creek Campground is open from April through October and makes a great base camp for groups by serving a wide variety of abilities and interests. On your way home, make sure you leave enough time to refuel at Carver’s Apple Orchard in Cosby, Tenn. At Carver’s you can shop for fresh produce at the farmers market, nab awesome treats at an old-time candy shop, and feast at a homestyle restaurant, where the apple fritters are not to be missed. Twentymile Loop In the southwest corner of the Smokies you’ll find a lesser-used trailhead that leads to the AT and one of the most scenic balds in the park. From this trailhead, you’ll log 17.6 miles on the way to Gregory Bald, sleeping one night on the AT and camping the other night on the bald. Start off Friday afternoon at the Twentymile Ranger Station off Highway 28 near the border of North Carolina and Tennessee. A non-technical climb takes you 4.5 miles to meet the AT at Sassafras Gap. Campsite #113, at Birch Spring Gap, is less than 1 mile north of the trail junction. If time allows late Friday or early Saturday morning, head south on the AT for 360-degree views at sunset or sunrise from the top of Shuckstack Fire Tower. The historic lookout isn’t regularly maintained, so watch your step on the 200-foot climb to the top. In the southwest corner of the Smokies you’ll find the lesser-used Twentymile Loop trailhead. Chris M Morris You’ll resume your northward journey on the AT, traveling 2 miles over Doe Knob to the next trail junction. Next, take Gregory Bald Trail west a little more than 3 miles to campsite #13 on the bald. Known for spectacular flame azalea blooms each year in mid to late June, the grassy high-elevation meadow offers stunning views of Cades Cove, Fontana Lake, and Clingmans Dome. On Sunday, make the final 6.3-mile descent to the trailhead on the wide, non-technical Wolf Ridge Trail. Refuel at Fontana Village, just over 6 miles down Highway 28, before heading home. Burgers and brews will hit the spot at Wildwood Grill, while the Mountainview Restaurant highlights seasonal produce, along with fresh, local rainbow trout. Deep Creek Loop Along Deep Creek loop you’ll pass Indian Creek Falls. Alan Cressler Enjoy the streams and waterfalls of the Deep Creek area in the south-central region of the Smokies on this 28.2-mile loop. You’ll also spend a night in an AT shelter and exit on one of the longest continuously descending trails in the Smokies. You’ve barely left the Deep Creek Ranger Station before you come across Tom Branch Falls and Indian Creek Falls. Once you pass these Instagram-worthy stops, it’s a slight uphill grade for 4 miles along the moderately rocky Deep Creek Trail to campsites 54-59. Claim a site for Friday evening (all but one are non-reservable) to enjoy the refreshing waters of Deep Creek and thickly wooded campsites. Creek crossings and easy bushwacking are on the agenda Saturday, as you hike another 4 miles to the Fork Ridge Trail. Fork Ridge ascends 5 miles to Clingmans Dome Road and the AT. A short hike north takes you to the Mount Collins shelter, where you’ll spend the night in a high-elevation spruce-fir forest and dramatically cooler, drier conditions. Enjoy the shelter amenities, like cozy bunks and a fireplace inside. Hike down from Clingmans Dome Road to start your final 11.4-mile descent. Kevin Stewart Photography The pre-dawn hike south to Clingmans Dome is highly recommended for 360 degrees of sunrise from the highest point in the Smokies. Hike 2 miles down Clingmans Dome Road to the Noland Divide Trailhead to start your final 11.4-mile descent. The trail slopes gently for the first 5 miles before making a steeper drop into Deep Creek, but there are few roots and rocks to slow you down. Make sure you stop to enjoy the views at Lonesome Pine Overlook along the way. After logging all those miles, nothing’s going to taste more satisfying than a meal and craft beer at The Warehouse at Nantahala Brewing Co. Wrap up your Smokies adventure on the outdoor patio in downtown Bryson City with specialties like the slow-cooked brisket noodle bowl, apple bourbon pork chops, or Bryson City Brown Ale chicken along with a flagship or seasonal draft. Written by Ann Gibson for RootsRated in partnership with OrthoCarolina.

Still trying to figure out your New Year’s Resolution? Here’s a suggestion: up your backpacking game in 2018. Make this the year that you take your backpacking skills to the next level to travel more safely and comfortably. In our list of skills below, we begin with the basics—fitting and packing your pack. While those sound like simple tasks, a surprising number of people hit the trail with ill-fitting, unbalanced packs that lead to soreness and misery. Then, we move on to other things that will benefit backpackers—map and compass skills, knots, first aid, and building a fire. If you’re super motivated, you could possibly take on all of these goals in the coming months. But, even if you tackle just one, you might be surprised at how gratified you’ll feel from learning something new. Learn to Fit & Pack Your Backpack A high-quality backpack can ease the burden of a heavy load on the trail, but it won’t do you much good if it’s not fitted and packed properly. If a salesperson didn’t fit your pack when you purchased it, consult the manufacturers’ website or online videos for fitting instructions, and be aware that fitting techniques can vary by brand. You can also find helpful videos produced by specialty retailers. It’s important to make sure that the pack fits your torso length, and that you properly position the shoulder straps, load lifter straps, sternum straps and hip belt. To ensure that your pack rides comfortably, you also need to pack it correctly so that the weight of your gear is distributed well. Try to make sure that the heaviest things, like your food bag, like close to your back and, if possible, centered on your back. Then, place lightweight items away from your back. You can also pack gear strategically, based on when you’ll need to access things. For example, put things you won’t need while hiking (like your sleeping bag) in the bottom of your pack. Then, put the things you’ll need frequently or immediately (like your map and toilet kit) in the lid or an external pocket. Learn to Use a Map & Compass Make a resolution this New Year to learn the basics of map and compass navigation. rawpixel.com As smart phones and other devices make navigating easier, fewer people are learning to use a good ole map and compass. And that’s fine if you’re just doing a day hike on well-marked trails, where you’re not likely to get lost. But if you go into the backcountry, you could be in a tough spot if your phone or GPS loses battery power or gets damaged. So, make a resolution this New Year to learn the basics of map and compass navigation. With a little online research you’ll find plenty of instructional books and videos. If you’re in the mood for a road trip, you could also drive up to Nashville to take map and compass course at REI. Once you’ve learned the basics, practice using a map and compass in a local recreation area before you leave for a big backcountry trip. Keep in mind that you might be using these skills when you’re tired and frustrated (being lost can be nerve-wracking), so it helps to have this stuff dialed in. Learn to Tie Useful Knots If you want to become the hero of your backpacking group, be the one who knows how to tie knots. On the trail, you can use knots to do a variety of things, from securing your tent to hanging a clothesline. Plus, knots will come in handy for other adventures, whether you’re tying into a harness to climb, or you’re securing a kayak to the shore. In your everyday life, knots can also prove useful. At some point, you might need to lash furniture to a vehicle when moving, and you’ll ride with peace of mind knowing that you didn’t just jerry-rig your stuff to keep it out of the road. Begin by learning a few knots that will come in handy frequently, such as the bowline, which you can use attach a line to a fixed object. On the trail, you might use a bowline to attach guyline cords to a tent, or tie a line to a tree to rig a tarp. The advantage of a bowline is that it won’t loosen under tension. But, you can loosen the knot easily when it’s time to untie it. It’s also good to learn the taut-line hitch, because it allows you to create a clothesline, or an adjustable guyline for a tent. Learn to Build a Fire Even if it’s not an emergency, a campfire will make a cold night on the trail cozier. Paul Gandy In an emergency situation in the backcountry, a fire can provide life-saving heat, a means to purify water, and a way to signal rescuers. Plus, survival experts say that a fire provides a sense of comfort and calm that will help you endure a tough situation. Even if it’s not an emergency, a campfire will make a cold night on the trail cozier. If you’re building a fire for the fun of it, ensure that fires are allowed in the area and that the fire danger is low. And, take time to learn the proper way to manage and extinguish a fire. If you’ve never mastered the art of building a fire, you’ll find plenty of tutorials online. There’s a certain method to successfully building a fire, and you don’t want o be fumbling around if you’re lost, cold and tired. Also, consider packing a fire starter kit, which will usually include tinder and tools to create a spark. The kit will serve as a backup if your lighter or matches don’t work, and you can get tinder that lights when wet—very helpful in the rainy South. Learn Basic First-Aid If you or a hiking partner is injured or gets ill during a backpacking trip, you could be miles or days away from professional care. If you do enough backpacking, you’ll someday deal with blisters, stings and maybe even burns. Plus, you or someone you encounter could get dehydration or hypothermia, or suffer some kind of wound, or an ankle or knee injury. If you purchased a first-aid kit from a gear store, there’s a chance it will include a small first-aid book, and you should take the time to read it. Plus, there are plenty of great wilderness medicine books on the market. But this year, go a step further and take a first-aid course to be even more prepared. If you visit the American Red Cross website, you can find first-aid courses offered in your area. While some Red Cross courses are not outdoor-specific, they’ll provide helpful fundamentals. Also, The University of Alabama in Birmingham offers a Wilderness First Responder course. Written by Marcus Woolf for RootsRated in partnership with BCBS of AL.

Hot springs usually fall into one of two categories: unmaintained, dug out pools overcrowded with local enthusiasts, or developed resorts, complete with showers, restaurants, and concrete. The former can be a gamble—hot springs are a natural petri dish for a variety of diseases (such as E. coli). But the latter can too often feel like a theme park or the spa at a local gym. Finding a hot spring with a natural feel that isn’t also risking your health can be a challenge. Here in Western Washington we are lucky enough to have Goldmyer Hot Springs, a tiny, steaming oasis in the middle of the Cascades’ temperate rainforests. On the way to the hot springs. Laura Lancaster Goldmyer was a popular tourist destination in the early part of the 20th century, but was abandoned in the 1960s after extensive flooding. After decades of neglect and overuse, the former owners donated the land to the Northwest Wilderness Programs, who restored and today manage the springs, employing rotating caretakers to process visitors and maintain the pools (including bi-weekly cleanings). From the caretaker’s cabin, visitors climb up through a canopy of ancient old growth—douglas firs, western hemlocks, and pacific silver firs—toward the sound of a roaring waterfall. Getting closer. Laura Lancaster Rounding the corner of a steep precipice brings the springs into view where there's an opening of a cave, framed with moss and ferns, with steaming water spilling out into two lower pools. Nearby is the cabana, a rustic, open-air structure, perfect for grabbing a quick bite to eat or changing out of sweaty hiking clothes. The pool furthest from the cave is the coolest—about 104 degrees with the temperatures rising to a steaming 111 degrees Fahrenheit inside the cave. Those who make it to the back of the cave are well-rewarded: a simple bench at the end far of the cave is perfect for enjoying the sauna-like atmosphere. A third pool, fed by an ice cold stream, quickly cools down any overheated bathers, leaving behind skin that is tingling and refreshed. Five miles from the nearest forest service road, Goldmyer is close enough to civilization for easy access by dedicated weekend warriors, but logistically complicated enough to dissuade Instagram addicts. (Although, speaking frankly, it’s probably best to leave your camera at home for this one: Goldmyer is clothing optional, and most days find a mix of bathers in swimsuits and in the nude.) Plan your Trip Today Goldmyer in all its modest yet welcoming glory. hundertmorgen_ Visitors are limited to 20 per day to ensure that Goldmyer remains pristine for years to come. This limit is strictly enforced, so you'll need to make a reservation in advance to ensure that you aren’t turned away at the gates. While many visitors will choose to hike out after an afternoon of soaking, overnight camping is also available for an additional $5. Note that campfires are not permitted on the Goldmyer premises. Getting There You're in the right place. Laura Lancaster _NOTE: Conditions change frequently along the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie. Check the Goldmyer website for the most up-to-date travel info. _ There are multiple access points for Goldmyer Hot Springs, so choose the right one for your experience and fitness level. 1. A long, difficult drive followed by a short, easy hike. Drive east from Seattle on I-90 and take exit 34, just past North Bend. Turn left onto 468th Street and drive north for a half mile. Turn right onto the Middle Fork Road and travel 9 miles (the paved road will turn to gravel and then dirt) to the Middle Fork campgrounds. Just after the campground, look for a dirt road heading uphill to the right. Follow this road another five miles until you reach the Dingford Creek Trailhead. This last road is minimally maintained, and a number of washouts over the years have made it impassable to all but high clearance, four wheel drive vehicles. Do not attempt this road if your car has low clearance. From the Dingford Creek Trailhead, hike the old road 4.5 miles to a marked intersection. Take the right fork, following the signs to Goldmyer Hot Springs, cross over the river, and hike up a short hill to the caretaker's cabin to check in. 2. A short, easy drive followed by a long, difficult hike. Drive I-90 east from Seattle and take exit 52 at Snoqualmie Pass. Drive under the overpass and continue on for about a mile until you reach the parking lot for the Snow Lake Trailhead near the Alpental ski resort. Hike the Snow Lake Trail 3.2 miles to the intersection on the far side of the lake. Take the Rock Creek Trail, heading downhill and to the right. The trail here, while well maintained, is significantly more rugged than the popular Snow Lake Trail, crisscrossing talus fields before switchbacking 4 miles down to the intersection with the Middle Fork Trail. Turn right and follow the Middle Fork Trail 2.5 miles until you reach Burnboot creek. Carefully cross the three downed logs that serve as a foot bridge. On the other side of the creek are signs directing you toward the caretaker’s cabin. 3. A short, easy drive and hike followed by some serious bushwhacking. This one is only for hikers experienced in route finding. After exiting I-90 at Snoqualmie Pass, follow signs for the PCT (between Alpental and The Summit) that lead to the trailhead for the PCT out of Snoqualmie Pass. Follow the trail for 2.5 miles until you reach a fork. Take the Commonwealth Basin Trail to the left to its end at Red Pass. This is where things get a little interesting. The trail below is where the Pacific Crest Trail ran before it was rerouted over the Kendall Katwalk. From Red Pass, pass by the “trail not maintained beyond this point sign” and hike 3.5 miles down a steep slope into lush old growth. The trail will eventually run alongside Burnboot Creek, leading you to the log crossing to Goldmyer along the Middle Fork Trail. The tiny, yet wonderful Goldmyer Hot Springs. Laura Lancaster All in all a visit to Goldmyer Hot Springs isn't some epic backcountry excursion. But if you're looking for a relaxing soak in nature without the crowds and with the chance to camp overnight, this is a super special place tucked into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Oh, and you're right next to a gorgeous, roaring waterfall the entire time. It really doesn't get any better than this. Written by Laura Lancaster for RootsRated.

Backpacking season may be winding down, but that doesn’t mean it’s over yet. While we’ve now lost summer’s long days and t-shirt temperatures, fall camping trips have benefits of their own: scenery speckled with red and gold trees, fewer crowds, and more permit availability. But with winter just around the corner, you’ll want to get on one of these trails soon (and don’t forget to bring that extra layer and rain cover for your pack). Here, five of the best late-season backpacking trips in Washington —because there's still time to get in one last hurrah before you have to wait for next season. 1. The Enchantments The Enchantments offer some of the best scenery in Washington. Nate B With sparkling blue-green alpine lakes, granite peaks, waterfalls, and mountain vistas, the Enchantments are filled to the brim with some of the most inspiring scenery in the Pacific Northwest. Which is exactly what makes winning a permit via the lottery system to visit during the high season so competitive. But there is a way around the whole permit hassle: Visit between mid-October and mid-June, and you won’t need one. Going to the Enchantments in autumn also means the forests will be all the more spectacular thanks to the larch trees, which are conifers with a deciduous-esque twist. Around mid-October the larch pine needles turn from green to gold, before they are blown off by winter’s storms. 2. Iron Peak Loop The view of Mount Stuart from Iron Peak is impressive. brewbooks Even when fall's showers drench Seattle, it is sometimes possible to find drier ground just on the other side of the Cascades. The 14.5-mile Iron Peak Loop , near Salmon La Sac, is a great option for a weekend backpacking trip when other hikes closer to the city seem too drippy. The trail ascends to a rocky ridge, from which you’ll be able to take in mountain views as you scramble along, including ones of Mount Stuart. Or, if you’re looking for something shorter in the same area, try the 9-mile hike to Lake Ingalls , one of the most popular treks in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. 3. Navajo Pass Also on the other side of the Cascades by way of Snoqualmie Pass, Navajo Pass is another good option if you’re looking for clearer skies. The 11-mile hike will take you alongside the bubbling Safford Creek, up a series of steep switchbacks, and through forests flavored with red and yellow fall foliage. And then comes the views from the top of the pass, of Mount Stuart and the surrounding Stuart Range. The best place to camp is the large meadow about five miles from the trailhead, from which you can scramble up other peaks in the area if you want an additional challenge the next day. 4. Blanca Lake Blanca Lake's turquoise waters draw quite the crowd in the summer. For a more peaceful experience, try visiting in fall. Amy Salowitz Blanca Lake ’s turquoise-blue water is no less than stunning. In summer, its beauty attracts some of the biggest crowds found on any trail in the area, so if you prefer a little more solitude while on the trail, try visiting in fall instead. The 7.5-mile hike is easily done as a day trip from Seattle, but the area is so pretty that it also makes for nice weekend retreat. There are camping sites all around Virgin Lake, which is about 0.6 miles from Blanca Lake. Just keep in mind that the trail’s high point is 4,600 feet, so you’ll want to get out here before the winter’s snow hits. 5. White Pass to Chinook Pass Soak up fantastic views throughout this 28-mile excursion. Robert Ashworth These two mountain passes are two of the prettiest in the state, and the 28 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail that connect them are among the best of the whole route. Hike from White Pass to Chinook Pass in the autumn and the fiery maples and cottonwoods you’ll encounter along the way will add to the visual splendor. While 28 miles is quite a lot to pack into one weekend, the trail is relatively flat and well marked, and there are plenty of places to camp along the way. Plus, you’ll be treated to glorious alpine vistas, including views of Goat Rocks, Mount St. Helens, and Mount Rainier, which is sure to keep the stoke running high. The National Forest Foundation promotes the enhancement and public enjoyment of the 193-million-acre National Forest System. By directly engaging Americans and leveraging private and public funding, the NFF improves forest health and Americans’ outdoor experiences. The NFF’s programs inform millions of Americans about the importance of these treasured landscapes. Each year, the NFF restores fish and wildlife habitat, plants trees in areas affected by fires, insects and disease, improves recreational opportunities, and enables communities to steward their National Forests and Grasslands. Learn more at www.nationalforests.org. Written by Samantha Larson for RootsRated.