800 Miles in 7 Days: A Quintessential Colorado Road Trip

“Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing—absolutely nothing—half so much worth doing as simply messing around in boats.” - Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows I first read those words when I was young, much too young to comprehend their whimsicality. Wind in the Willows was a staple in my family, but the river life was not. Drawn more to mountains and dirt, we were not raised as “water people.” But there they were, these famous words, scrawled inside my old and distorted journal. I had hastily added them two years prior, before my first trip through the Grand Canyon, down the Colorado River. And now, as we slept on the banks of the river at the Lee’s Ferry put-in after a long day of rigging rafts, toying with oar rights, and making last-minute beer runs, I flipped through my entries from my first trip down the abyss. On the eve of such an anticipated return to the river—a few of us even had a “redemption rapid” or two that we were eager to conquer more smoothly on a second go-round—the water was calm, the sky was clear, and the cold front was settling in. Not long after dark, the November frost had already begun to gather on our strewn out sleeping bags, foreboding for a cold three weeks. Peaceful mornings along the Colorado River. Brian Bates But no one cared about the cold. Because, simply said, there is nothing better than messing around in boats. If one is to spend three weeks confined to a single landscape, it’s tough to find one that’s better than the Grand Canyon. Camp life is slow and loose when pressed so close against a water so quick and untiring. Juniper smolders in the stoked light of the fire as the eddy lines dance and the river boils swirl and bubble nearby. There is a stillness to this canyon that is unrivaled; it is not a cathedral but a monastery; not remote, but entirely removed; and nothing seems colored, only forcefully stained. And rarely does anything on the Colorado River ever dry. The skin on your hands will painfully crack, you will find sand in your hair for months after your trip, and you will be forced to test your restraint and discipline as you ration both your supply of dry socks and of beer. But they will be the most perfect days of your life. The Gear Boats in a row. Brian Bates Obviously, gear is dependent on the season. The warmer, summer seasons, require a little less foresight. You will spend little time (if any) wrapped in a puffy down coat, and a pair of chacos and hiking shoes might be all you need. But in the winter, a dry suit is the most important piece of gear you can bring. Of the 21 days we spent on the river, perhaps only a small handful were spent on the boats without our drysuits worn. Even on the more relaxing days, it is best to start the day with the suit halfway on, tied around your waist, just in case you need to fully don the protection in a non-threatening yet substantially splashy rapid. Realistically, the average Colorado River Grand Canyon permit recipient does not own the large and seemingly endless assortment of essential gear, or at least enough of said gear for an entire group. That is where outfitters, such as our go-to company Moenkopi Riverworks, prove invaluable. For reasonable prices, outfitters can supply a group with rentals of anything and everything: from rafts to entire kitchen set-ups, groovers (toilets) to coolers, dry bags, and any small piece of equipment a boat could need. For an extra price, most outfitters will go as far as planning and packing every meal, organized by day with easy-to-follow instructions and menus. While experienced trippers may opt to pack their own food, we can vouch that not having the stress of planning, purchasing, and packing group food for three weeks is well worth it. The Rapids Scouting rapids along the Colorado River. Brian Bates They say a good run in Lava Rapid, perhaps the most destructive and terribly fantastic rapid in the canyon stretch, only takes twenty seconds. Similarly, it is a rough estimate that rapids only make up 10% of your time on the river, if that. But they are without a doubt at the front of everyone’s mind every morning at coffee and every night at the fire. Other large rapids, such as Granite (mile 94), Hermit (mile 95.5), and Crystal (mile 99) are separated by short moments of both relief looking backwards and anxiety looking forward, if all goes well. Big-water days, however, are the magnetism of the river. There are unlimited reasons to journey down the Grand Canyon, but it is undeniable that the hydraulics in this stretch are unrivaled by any other river in the American West. You can plan, study, and scout as much as you want, but once you dip your oars into the current and pull out of the eddy, anything can happen. The Roaring Twenties whip you into shape in just the second day. Hance Rapid can have you pinballing down the endless stretch of waves. A failure to get far enough right in Bedrock will either pin you to rock mid-rapid, or send you through the washing machine on the left. Horn Creek Rapid can quickly turn into a ride on a rollercoaster-gone-wrong, and not straddling the gap properly between the wall and crashing holes in Upset will...well...it’s in the name. But the best stretch of big-water is the aforementioned Granite/Hermit/Crystal stretch: three of the five toughest rapids, all in a 5 mile stretch: you better wake up rowdy. Which is exactly how it went. Without scouting, simply relying on a brash cocktail of memory, a last-ditch guide book examination, and frantic shouting from boat to boat over the roar of the rapid, we hit the Granite/Hermit/Crystal stretch with full force. Bunched tightly in single-file order, each oarsman would periodically pop quickly to their feet and strain their neck: ground hogs on rubber boats peering down a smooth tongue into the chaos. Without warning, each raft would surge ahead of the group as it suddenly caught the top of the rapid and accelerate into the mess, either rowing furiously to follow the line or squaring up to the crashing waves. The boaters behind, in their natural state, would pop up to their feet again, watch their buddy navigate the rapid, make mental notes, and then find themselves swept into the wave train. No other day, and no other rapids—save for Lava—have such power to remind us that, while this river may be restrained upstream by the famous Glen Canyon Dam, it is still a surging, pounding, untameable beast. The Layover Days Descending into the abyss. Brian Bates And so while much is made—and rightly so—of the messing around in boats, it is the days off of the boats and removed from the river that make a Grand Canyon river trip remarkable. Just as you would not venture down the river without a guidebook to the rapids, it is equally worth it to invest in a thick guide book to all of the hiking and slot canyon rappelling to be found on dry land along the way. Three (or even four) weeks is an awfully long time to enjoy the Grand Canyon, and there is plenty of exploration to be found, shore-side naps to be snoozed, and books to be enjoyed while the world outside the canyon hurls on at a much faster clip, unnoticed and unminded to the boaters at the bottom. For climbers, there is an astounding amount of slot-canyons to explore and rappel. A favorite is the canyon at mile 44, President Harding Camp. The wash, while looking unmanageable from below, includes 7 rappels totalling over 650 feet of combined drop on the rope. Never explore a slot canyon without consulting the guidebook first, and never commit to dropping down even short rappels without the right gear and time to assume you won’t be able to retrace your steps backwards. One of the many extraordinary hikes is found while camping at either Racetrack Camp (around mile 134) or directly beneath the ensuing rapid. Start early and plan on a long trek with lots of uphill: once you start venturing up Tapeats Creek, you won’t want to turn back. Eventually you can veer left and follow Thunder River, up to Thunder River Springs, where the waterfall flows directly from a spring hidden deep inside the towering canyon walls. Turn around, or complete the loop through Surprise Valley and enjoy the famous “Patio” above Deer Creek. It is this writer’s belief to push for early mornings and longer efforts on the river. The more mileage you row on flat water days, the more layover days you are allowed at camp. More layover days means a more complete immersion into the river, the canyon, and the treasured life that defines this slow escape down the rabbit hole. Messing Around in Boats Rest day exploration along the Colorado River. Brian Bates With the ever-looming threat of development in the Grand Canyon and along the Colorado River, one of the most unspoiled stretches of the American West grows more and more treasured with age. Such wilderness is hard to find nowadays, and the raw immersion into a completely self-sufficient wilderness should be preserved (visit American Rivers to learn more). Because the experience is not just in the simple sight seeing of the canyon and river, it is in the actual doing of the thing: the actual rowing of the oars a couple hundred miles, the waking up at 6:30 for coffee and the falling asleep under the stars when it is dark at 8, the transformation of putting yourself out there where few others have been, where there are no crowds, where places are hard to get to. Because messing around in boats in these places is worth doing. Written by Brian Bates for RootsRated.

While the state parks are great in the summer, they offer entirely different experiences in the colder months. Frozen waterfalls, snow-covered trees, and fresh trails emerge in winter. What’s more, this time of year also presents a number of fresh and interesting ways to explore the parks. Skiing, snowshoeing, sledding, and ice climbing are only available when the temperatures dip and the snow falls. Whether you’re looking for a weekend getaway or just a day trip, the state parks have a little something for every outdoor adventurer. We selected a few of our favorite Minnesota State Parks to visit this time of year. So bundle up and grab your snowshoes or skis and hit the snowy trails. 1. Afton State Park Afton State Park features camper cabins and yurts available for rent year-round. Minnesota DNR In the warmer months, this park that overlooks the St. Croix River is known for its dense forested trails and gorgeous prairie flowers. In the winter, Afton State Park is a perfect place for cross-country skiing and snowy hikes. Miles of groomed ski and snowshoe trails allow you to explore areas of the park you may have missed in the summer. If you want to make a weekend of it, check out their camper cabins and yurts available for rental year-round. 2. Gooseberry Falls State Park Gooseberry State Park features spectacular frozen falls in the winter. Paul Sundburg The frozen falls are the number one reason to visit Gooseberry Falls State Park in the winter. The spectacular Upper, Middle, and Lower Falls of the Gooseberry River transform from a thunderous torrent of water through a rocky gorge to a frozen masterpiece. If you’re into scaling these natural structures in the winter, ice climbing is allowed on the lower falls. Twenty kilometers of groomed classic cross-country ski trails also make for a great way to see large portions of the park. 3. Fort Snelling State Park Snowshoeing at Fort Snelling State Park. Minnesota DNR Located right in the Twin Cities, Fort Snelling State Park presents an excellent opportunity to get out and active even on a weeknight. With 12 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails and six miles of multi-use trails, you won’t run out of places to explore in the park anytime soon. A favorite path among local hikers is the three miles of packed walking trails that encircle the wooded Pike Island at the confluence of the Minnesota and Mississippi Rivers. With a pair of snowshoes, you can get off the beaten path and go anywhere except the groomed ski trails. 4. Split Rock Lighthouse State Park Crashing waves at the Split Rock Lighthouse State Park. Paul Sundburg Split Rock Lighthouse State Park offers one of the most iconic Minnesota photo opportunities in the entire state. Well known for its historic lighthouse, the park brings in visitors of every ilk all year round. Fat biking is an even better reason to visit Split Rock in the winter. Part of the fat-bike pilot program, the park offers 8.7 miles of thrilling groomed trails specifically for fat biking that run right along Lake Superior. 5. Tettegouche State Park You'll find some stunning winter views at Tettegouche State Park. Amy Mustonen Tettegouche is famous for its imposing cliffs and scenic overlooks. Winter provides a particularly spectacular views of the High Falls of the Baptism River. At around 100 feet, these frozen falls are a great stop on a snowshoe hike around the park. Cross-country skiing and snowmobiling are also popular activities in this park once a good base of snow has accumulated. 6. William O’Brien State Park The William O'Brien State Park features ten miles of skate and classic cross-country ski trails. Minnesota DNR Situated along the St. Croix River, William O’Brien State Park is just an hour from the Twin Cities. Snowshoe rentals on-site, along with year-round camper cabins make this an easy getaway for city dwellers. Snowshoeing is a great way to experience the rolling prairie trails and hardwood forests of this park. If you’re looking for a more intense cardio workout, ten miles of skate and classic cross country ski trails are groomed regularly and skijoring with your dog is encouraged. 7. Jay Cooke State Park The famous Swinging Bridge at Jay Cooke State Park. Mackenzie Havey For the hardiest Minnesotans, Jay Cooke State Park is a great option for winter camping. If you prefer something a bit more comfortable, it also has five year-round camper cabins available for rent. Cross-country ski buffs love Jay Cooke for its 32 miles of classic ski trails that weave their way through the park. If you visit, don’t miss out on the beautiful views of the raging St. Louis River via the famous Swinging Bridge. 8. Itasca State Park The Itasca State Park features 32,000 acres and more than 100 lakes on the property. Minnesota DNR Situated at the headwaters of the Mississippi River, Itasca State Park is a place every outdoor-loving Minnesotan needs to visit. Comprised of 32,000 acres and more than 100 lakes, you'll never run out of things to do when it comes to outdoor adventure. For silent sports enthusiasts, there are miles of classic and skate groomed ski trails throughout the park. To explore the outer edges, rent a snowmobile and check out the 31 miles of trails along the perimeter of the park. Written by Mackenzie Lobby Havey for RootsRated.

There’s no need to wait until warm weather to snooze under the stars. Winter camping in Colorado is a magical experience. The summer crowds are gone, a gentle quiet washes over the woods, and you don’t need to venture far to feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere. If you’re keen to give winter camping a try, follow these tips to make the most of a snowy night out. 1. Start easy. A cozy camp set up not far from the Hessie Trailhead. James Dziezynski If you’re new to winter camping, ease yourself into the experience by picking a spot that’s not too far from your car. U.S. Forest Service land west of Boulder has some pretty choice spots. For the inside scoop, check out our recommendations for five places to try winter camping near Boulder . You might also get giddy checking out the range of options at Colorado's state parks. Thirty of them offer winter camping, ranging from cushy campsites to blissful backcountry spots. A developed campground (with a convenient bathroom) can make your first winter overnight less daunting. State Forest, Golden Gate Canyon, and Ridgway state parks even offer cabins and yurts for newbies who want some sort of roof over their heads. 2. Plan for safety. Proper preparation is key when heading into the winter wilds. Agree on a plan with your partner, check the weather forecast, and tell someone where you’re going and when you expect to return. To ensure you get home safely, dot your i’s and cross your t’s. Study your route carefully, bring a map and compass, and note landmarks along the way. Don’t count on following your footsteps; a surprise storm could erase them without a trace. Also carry some way to communicate with the outside world. A DeLorme InReach satellite communicator is a great choice and can help you navigate. Last but not least, if your route crosses avalanche terrain, take a course in snow safety and carry avalanche gear. 3. Gear up. Winter shrinks the margin of error, so go ahead and geek out on gear. Suck up the extra weight and pack a four-season tent to protect against whatever old man winter throws your way. For cooking, liquid fuel stoves trump canister stoves in the cold. Carry extra fuel. And keep in mind that cold saps power from batteries, so bring extras and store them in a warm spot, like in your sleeping bag. Lithium batteries cope with the cold better than alkaline ones. If carrying extra cold-weather gear weighs down your pack, considering hauling all of your stuff in a sled instead. 4. Dress the part. Layering is key to being able to control your temperature and avoid catching a chill. Start with a wool or synthetic base layer that wicks moisture away from your skin. On top of that, you’ll need a mid-weight layer, a down sweater, and a waterproof layer at the very least. Bring more clothing than you think you might need. A warm hat and gloves are essential, of course. Always pack extra socks and gloves in case your first pair gets wet. Overheating is also a concern since sweat robs your body of warmth. While you’re walking (or skiing or snowshoeing) to your site, whittle down your layers so you don’t overheat. Unzip or strip down the minute you start feeling hot. As soon as you get to your campsite, put on warm clothes to trap all the body heat you generated en route. 5. Protect your feet. Wet boots can freeze. Dry, toasty feet are happy feet. For best results, wear two layers of socks in warm, waterproof boots. Make sure those extra socks don’t make your boots too tight. For extra credit, use vapor barrier socks next to your skin. (Plastic bags can achieve the same effect in a pinch.) Strap on gaiters to keep out snow. Bonus tip: Pull out your boot liners and snooze with them in your sleeping bag overnight. Or, if you have a roomy sleeping bag, put your boots in the stuff sack for your sleeping bag or tent and keep them at the foot of your bag. 6. Prepare your tent space. A good level surface will ensure a good night's sleep. hikingqueen Pick a campsite that’s sheltered from the wind. If you’re camping on snow, pack it down into a flat platform (erring on the large side) before pitching your tent. Stake down your shelter securely to prevent having to go out in the cold to fix it if wind whips up in the middle of the night. Winter snow stakes are a great option, especially when buried in a deadman (horizontal) position in the snow. 7. Stay toasty in your sleep. Staying warm is critical to getting a good night’s rest. Use a sleeping bag that’s rated for temperatures lower than forecast. Add a sleeping bag liner for extra warmth. Underneath your bag, use two sleeping pads, including at least one foam pad. (Go with one that has a high R rating for maximum insulation.) To pre-warm your nest, fill a water bottle with hot water and stuff it into your bag. Just be sure the lid is screwed on tight. Wearing a hat and a soft, non-restrictive neck gaiter keep a lot of heat from escaping from your head. 8. Fuel up. Pack a shovel when winter camping to dig snow pits and style your campsite. Eric Larsen Your body burns extra calories in the cold, so bring plenty of food. Cook in a protected area away from the wind, like a snow trench or your tent’s vestibule. Fill a thermos with hot soup or tea to sip while you cook. When it comes to water, don’t let the saying “pure as driven snow” mislead you. Boil or treat melted snow before you drink it. Hydrate frequently since colder temperatures keep thirst at bay even when you’re body needs fluids. Store water bottles upside down to keep the threads from freezing. If you’re feeling festive, craft an ice bar out of the snow, with slotted holes to store spirits. 9. Pee in a bottle. Yep, that’s right. To save yourself from a chilly bathroom run in the middle of the night, pee in a bottle in your tent. Ladies, you can do this, too, with a little practice. A nifty device called a Shewee lets you relieve yourself without even getting undressed. Boys and girls, whatever you do, mark your pee bottle clearly so you don’t swig from it by accident (some people buy yellow bottles for this purpose). That could put a damper on your winter camping enthusiasm. 10. Keep a warm, fuzzy attitude. A positive mindset will help you go with the flow and keep cold thoughts from creeping into your head. Take it from Eric Larsen, a polar explorer who has skied to the North Pole three times and knows a thing or two about staying warm: “When you think you’re going to be cold, you’re going to be cold. Understanding that you can be warm no matter what the conditions are is a huge thing.” If you get cold, put on more clothes and do something to stoke your inner furnace, like jumping jacks, chopping wood, or taking a brisk walk through the woods. Most importantly, embrace the spirit of adventure and have fun. Written by Avery Stonich for RootsRated.

In Washington, the highest of the high country can be snowed in deep from October to June. And that’s true even in a warm winter like this one. But no matter where the mercury falls, there’s a place to lace up your boots—whether you’re craving a quadburner or a riverside ramble, a quick morning jaunt or an all-day, road-tripping adventure. Here, our suggestions for five great winter hikes in Seattle. 1. Baker Lake Trail Mount Baker, Baker Lake —the views of one from the other are spectacular, and with a low trailhead elevation of around 1,000 feet, the route stays snow-free almost all year round. This hike is a Northwest grab bag: old-growth Douglas fir draped with lichen, cedar snags charred by an 1843 forest fire, shoreline campsites, old wooden bridges, and the dramatic backdrop of a glacier-clad volcano. (Bonus: in winter, with leaves on the ground, Mount Baker is all the more visible.) With a shuttle, you can go 14.5 miles one way; with gumption, you can finish the whole thing. 2. Hoh River In the Hoh Rainforest, it's easy being green. Scott Costello During the summer, the Hoh Rainforest is one of the busiest places in Olympic National Park, with some of the largest trees on earth, big herds of Roosevelt elk, and mosses that drip off every conceivable branch in a spectrum of greens, from lime to emerald. Come winter, the rain can be incessant but crowds are gone—and the beauty doesn’t change. The trail is mellow and well-trodden, following the Hoh River upstream for pretty much as far as you want to go, or until you hit snow (it’s how mountaineers access 7,979-foot Mount Olympus). Five Mile Island, a lush landmark in the middle of the river, is a perfect turnaround, and the total elevation gain is under 1,000 feet. 3. Middle Fork Snoqualmie River The way across the Middle Fork. laffertyryan If you can spare a couple hours, the Middle Fork —30 miles from downtown—is the Seattle outdoor version of instant outdoors gratification. Just after crossing a beautiful wooden bridge, this trail goes both downstream and up—and we say up’s the way to go. The woods are silent, the river is loud, and the mileage clocks in at six. Along the way, you’ll see the humpbacked ridgeline of Stegosaurus Butte, where you might see climbers on its slabby walls. Some of the creek crossings can be tricky this time of year, so pack a trekking pole or two. 4. East Peak Rattlesnake Trail, from Rattlesnake Lake Looking down on Rattlesnake Lake from Rattlesnake Ledge. Layne Shepherd Most people who come to Rattlesnake , a steady switchbacking climb, end up at the precipitous cliffs of the lowest ledge to have a snack and then descend again. Those two miles, with 1,100-odd feet of elevation gain, are great for a quickie (for you and, on nice weekends, what seems like half of Seattle). Granted, with the whole Cedar River watershed and Mount Si in front of you, it’s worth a pause. But those in the know continue on another 2.4 miles past a few more ledges along a ridge to East Peak, more than doubling the climb. If the weather’s clear, you can peek through the trees to see Mount Rainier. 5. Ozette Triangle Just one highlight of the Ozette: the seastacks off Cape Alava. Scoring a summertime permit to camp in this part of Olympic National Park isn’t easy, but hiking the loop in a single day is not just doable—it should be on every Northwesterner’s bucket list. In just 9.4 miles, you can meander paths lined with huge ferns, cross boardwalks over seas of skunk cabbage, check out an old homestead, find Makah petroglyphs, and traverse a wild coastline dotted with tidepools and lorded over by bald eagles. The best part? No matter how much snow remains in the alpine, it doesn’t matter to you. You’re headed to the beach.   Written by Evelyn Spence for RootsRated.