Shylie's Last Hurrah: Backpacking in the Desolation Wilderness for an Old Dog

Posted by: Josh Garwood • Monday, February 25 2019

My partner Jacob and I don't have children. We have a dog, Shylie—our 10-year-old wolf-like black-and-tan mutt.

We are insane parents. Shylie gets filet mignon on her birthday. She has an Instagram account and a blog. We’ve designed Shylie-themed t-shirts, calendars, and bumper stickers. We sing to her all day, every day, that she’s the best dog in the world. This dog is adored.

Shylie's bred for dogsledding, but she's spent her whole life on the beach, in Santa Cruz, California. Jacob and I are aware that she has only a few good years left, so we decided this summer, before she gets too old, to show her what she's made for: the mountains.

A big yawn from Shylie.
Kara Guzman — A big yawn from Shylie. Kara Guzman

For two long weekends each month, we've gone backpacking near Lake Tahoe, in the Desolation Wilderness, 200 miles northeast of San Francisco. It's dog heaven: pine forests and wildflower meadows full of chipmunks and dozens of alpine lakes to jump in.

We already knew that Shylie loves running at altitude, in cool mountain forests. We’ve taken her mountain biking near Lake Tahoe dozens of times (since unlike Santa Cruz, the trails are dog-friendly and don’t have poison oak).

But Shylie’s never gone backpacking before. As much as we love this dog, we’ve never spent four days and nights around the clock with her. Days of quality time with her humans, and of all places, in the mountains? It was a no-brainer. We knew she would have the time of her life.

Shylie faithfully follows the author on the barren climb to Middle Velma Lake.
Jacob Meyberg — Shylie faithfully follows the author on the barren climb to Middle Velma Lake. Jacob Meyberg

What we didn’t realize was that the 100-square-mile Desolation Wilderness, with its roughly 130 lakes and patchwork of creeks, is perfect for dogs. We don’t carry water for Shylie since there are freshwater stops less than a mile apart on almost every trail. Plus, she loves to jump in, shake, and cool off.

Out here, the old dog plays like a puppy. At dusk, when we pitch our tent at one of the hundreds of lakeside campsites, she freezes in a play stance, with her butt in the air. Then she’s off, careening around the campsite like her tail’s on fire.

It turns out the Desolation Wilderness is perfect for Jacob and me, too. We had snowball fights in July. We taught ourselves to fish for trout. We swam naked to granite islands in ice-cold lakes all to ourselves. We were surprised by a hailstorm on an 80-degree day and huddled for cover with the dog under a warm, sun-baked boulder. We hiked portions of the Pacific Crest Trail, and as according to custom, made trail nicknames. (Mine was ‘Squiter Heaven.)

Shylie briefly tolerates a portrait with a juniper tree overlooking the Desolation Valley.
Kara Guzman — Shylie briefly tolerates a portrait with a juniper tree overlooking the Desolation Valley. Kara Guzman

Another highlight during our Desolation excursions this summer have been the meals. Jacob’s parents gave us a food dehydrator, and I’ve been using my backcountry cookbook. In my pack, I lug a bear canister stuffed with homemade dried goodies, like duck soup, carrot salad, and even masoor dal.

One night at Dick’s Lake, we had peanut chicken stew under the stars, watching bats eat mosquitoes. While the food heated on our tiny stove, Jacob hand-fed Shylie her kibble, which I portioned into plastic bags for each meal.

The nights are cold and windy in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, so Shylie sleeps in our tent, where she pins me like a wrestler as she snuggles my sleeping bag. Then each morning, we climb a new granite peak and count all the lakes.

Occasionally, Shylie surprises a grouse on the trail, and it heaves its plump, brown body into flight, drumming its wings before gliding to a branch. Yellow-bellied marmots—chubby gopher-like rodents that look like teddy bears—squawk as they poke their heads from the rocks, like a real-life game of Whack-a-Mole.

Each day, there are new flowers, too. This summer the Desolation Wilderness was simply blooming with wildflowers, after the first wet winter in a five-year drought. Each weekend, the landscape’s colors have shifted and I'm constantly delighted, as we hike from one terrain to the next.

My partner Jacob checks out a snowbank while Shylie looks for chipmunks
Kara Guzman — My partner Jacob checks out a snowbank while Shylie looks for chipmunks Kara Guzman

Shylie, meanwhile, constantly sniffs for chipmunks. When she hears the tiniest squeak, she surges up rocky cliffs or down steep ravines, like a kamikaze pilot.

Some of the trails are made of sharp, granite shards, which are tough on Shylie’s paws, but the terrain doesn’t phase her. She’s at home in the mountains. She runs twice as far and as fast out here compared to anywhere else.

She's finally doing what she's meant to: She’s exploring the wilderness with her "pack."

And in a way, so am I. When I can go consecutive days without seeing a screen, I’m happy. That little voice in my head, the one that worries about stupid things, disappears. My focus narrows to the view at hand and the trail ahead.

Part of me though, hears the ticking clock. It knows this paradise won’t last, and these weekend escapes with the dog are numbered.

Shylie hangs her tongue after climbing to the top of the Bayview Trail. Eagle Lake is seen from above.
Jacob Meyberg — Shylie hangs her tongue after climbing to the top of the Bayview Trail. Eagle Lake is seen from above. Jacob Meyberg

The cruel trick of loving a dog is how fast they age. I’m dreading the future, when Shylie’s eyes are too cloudy to see and her hips too creaky to chase. And—I don’t even want to write it—I’m dreading that horrible veterinarian appointment, when we say our goodbyes.

If my crazy love affair with this dog has taught me one thing, it’s to be conscious and aware of every single moment. I’ve literally spent days gazing into the dog’s eyes, wondering what she’s thinking, what that voice in her head sounds like. I mean, is she barking in there?

After months of observing Shylie, I’ve realized that she is the ultimate Zen master. She’s not thinking at all.

When she’s outside, she’s listening for chipmunks. She’s sniffing coyote markings on a tree. She’s picking a line across a granite scree. She’s scratching her back on a pile of pine cones. She’s tasting the snowmelt.

Take note. This is what life is about.

The author follows Shylie on the descent to Granite Lake.
Jacob Meyberg — The author follows Shylie on the descent to Granite Lake. Jacob Meyberg

TIPS:

Backcountry camping permits cost $5 per person per night. Campers must pick a “zone” for their first night, then are free to camp anywhere on their next night.
Reservations can be made online, but most of the popular zones are filled through September. A limited number of walk-in spots are available for each zone. Same-day walk-in permits are available at the four Forest Service Permit OfficesForest Service Permit Offices throughout the Lake Tahoe area. The line starts forming around 7 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, so get there early.
According to the rules, dogs should be on-leash in the Desolation Wilderness, but most owners don’t follow those rules in the backcountry. However, if you’re going to take your dog off-leash, it should be well-trained, and know the “come” and “leave it” commands. Some wildlife can be dangerous to dogs, such as porcupines and ticks, etc.
Many of the trails in the Desolation Wilderness are rocky and tough on dog paws. We’ve used Musher's Secret wax with some success. (Our dog likes to lick it off.) Others use booties for their dogs.

Written by Kara Guzman for RootsRated.

Back to Adventure Insights

Hiking back to the parking lot from Bullet Cave on the Barton Creek Greenbelt, Austin caving enthusiast Phil Kearney gets philosophical when asked why he likes caving: "Outside of deep-sea diving and high-altitude mountaineering, caving is the closest that we mere mortals can come to visiting another world." I’m sure many would agree. While Austin, TX can’t claim to have any of its caves on the cover of National Geographic, our city and surrounding areas offer up plenty of surreal experiences for those who like to crawl under the earth in search of rarely seen spaces. Austin caver Phil Kearney exits Bullet cave. Dave Brown Millions of years ago, the place we now call Austin was underwater, and what was then home to beds of coral and mollusks became limestone bedrock and karst, tunneled throughout with ancient underground waterways and other passages. These passages – many of which have surfaced at the Balcones Fault line, which today is followed partially by Barton Creek – became caves, and although surely thousands remain undiscovered, a handful have been mapped by the experts. Most of these caves are either secret or too difficult to access by anyone else, but a few are available for public wandering, and of them, some of the most easily accessible ones lie just minutes from downtown, along the Barton Creek Greenbelt. The easiest to reach is still not known to everyone, but it’s not too sacred to talk about. It’s Bullet Cave, just a ten minute hike from the parking lot at the Highway 360 entrance to the Greenbelt. It’s not difficult or very long, but it's a great initial exposure to caving in Austin and it gets you into near total darkness. Only thing is that it’s just about a 40-foot crawl through a narrow, two-foot-high tube into a standing-height room. At the back of that room is another, narrower loop passage that leads back another 20 feet or so. Author Dave Brown exits Bullet cave's cliff-face opening Dave Brown Also in the Greenbelt is Backdoor Cave. And other caves around the city include Whirlpool and Maple Run, among others. To find out exactly where the entrance to Bullet Cave is and to learn about the others and possibly schedule a guided visit, contact the same people who can show you every other must-see cave in the Austin area – the Underground Texas (UT) Grotto organization. They can also hook you up with a visit to the one Greenbelt cave that’s a hallmark site for every Texas caver, Airmen’s Cave. For good reason, Airmen’s was restricted for public use (but not banned, thanks in large part to UT Grotto) a couple years ago. It was getting abused and needed protection, and too many people were not caving responsibly in this precious cavern, so it’s now gated. At about 2.5 miles long, it’s been hailed as one of the longest caves in Texas, and harbors such scenes as the Aggie Art Gallery with its anonymous clay sculptures scattered throughout, the Crystal Room and other highlights. This cave is only open occasionally, so contact UT Grotto to schedule a visit, including beginner’s instruction. Aggie Art Gallery in Airmen's cave. Patrick Lewis In the meantime, while you’re waiting for Airmen’s to open, wander around the Greenbelt, especially around the cliffs on the southeast side of the Horseshoe Bend area of the creek, and see if you can find the Bullet. I won’t give away the exact location here (although you can probably find it elsewhere on the Web) because exploring is what caving is all about. And like caver Phil Kearney says, “I love just getting out to these hidden, otherworldly spots, exploring, and appreciating the utterly natural state of things in caves.” Take your time to enjoy all the nature around you... above you and below you.

The 20 Best Day Hikes in Colorado

These are the kind of articles that keep me up at night. Whittling down a list of Colorado’s best day hikes to a mere twenty is a daunting task. There are literally hundreds of hikes that would fit the bill, and none of them would be wrong. If that comes off like a big, fat, humblebrag, well it is. The wealth of quality hiking adventures in Colorado is nearly limitless. Some hikes offer instant glory right from the parking lot (such as Brainard Lake in the Indian Peaks) while others take liberty with the definition of “day” hike, (such as the 16+ miles to Storm King Peak in the Grenadier Range, possible to knock out in a single day by strong hikers). What makes a hike great is in the eye of beholder, but this collection of adventures is a worthy compilation that showcases the best natural settings in Colorado: towering mountains, crystal-clear alpine lakes, jagged rock faces, expansive views, and good wildlife sighting potential. A personal preference for longer days out (between 4 - 8 hours) is reflected in many of these adventures. With that in mind, these hikes offer a variety of wilderness environments across the state and range from simple on-trail walks to difficult—yet non-technical—scrambling (assuming the seasonal conditions are free of ice and snow). Please feel free to add some of your own favorites not listed here in the comments! 1. Longs Peak - Keyhole Route Difficulty: Hard The Keyhole Route before transitioning to the class 3 scrambling on Longs Peak. Note the shelter at the base of the notch Katie Dills Let’s get the obvious out of the way. At 14,255 feet, Longs Peak is the 13th highest mountain in the state and one of the most visited peaks with a notoriously elusive summit. The National Park Service estimates about 15,000 people attempt to get to the top of Longs each year, with only 50% of them actually reaching the highest point. The 15-mile roundtrip, 5,000+ feet of elevation gain, thrilling exposure, and unpredictable weather add up to create a mountain whose mood can welcome or thwart even the most experienced hikers. Passing through the Keyhole itself is like shifting worlds into a mountainous kingdom hidden from sight during the 5.5 mile approach through forests and boulder fields. The trail is well-marked and can be crowded on summer weekends, but Longs nevertheless delivers on the promise of incredible views and worthy terrain. 2. Mount Bierstadt Difficulty: Moderate Mount Bierstadt’s welcoming slopes as seen from Guanella Pass. Patricia Henschen A common mistake many aspiring Colorado hikers make is to target Longs Peak before they have the fitness or experience to stack the odds of a successful summit in their favor. Here’s where Mount Bierstadt comes into play. The popular 14,060’ peak off of Guanella Pass near Georgetown is an accommodating 6-mile round trip along a well-maintained trail. It’s a great starter mountain for those hoping to hike all of Colorado’s 58 14,000’ summits (the eponymous 14ers). More experienced hikers can test their mettle on Sawtooth Ridge, a 1-mile stretch of Class 3 rock that connects the summit of Bierstadt with the shoulder of 13,842’ Mount Spaulding and eventually 14,264’ Mount Evans. The typical descent back to Guanella Pass involves bushwhacking through moose-infested swampland, where 7-foot tall willows create a natural garden maze. 3. The Base of Lizard Head Peak via Lizard Head Pass Difficulty: Easy to Moderate Lizard Head is the throat of an extinct volcano. Jim Good Lizard Head Peak is one of the toughest 13,000’ mountains in Colorado to summit, thanks to the chossy, loose, 400’ vertical tower that requires 5.8-graded climbing on poor rock to reach its highest point. Thankfully, this hike follows a good trail 3.5 miles one-way to the base of the tower—no climbing required. The adventure begins atop the paved Lizard Head Pass, about 15 minutes from the town of Telluride. Though it’s a 7-mile out-and-back, the trail starts off nearly flat as it wanders through alternating alpine meadows and pockets of pine forest. As views open up, the grandeur of the San Juan Mountains unveils itself, including the impressive profiles of the Wilson Massif. Standing at the base of the crumbling tower (an extinct volcanic pipe) makes the fact that it was originally climbed in 1920 even more impressive. 4. Black Canyon of the Gunnison Difficulty: Moderate to Hard The imposing rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Matthew Macpherson Black Canyon of the Gunnison, an oft-overlooked national park, flips the script by bringing you down rather than up. Oh, and the “trails” are more like suggested scrambles rather than fully developed hiking paths. The easiest of these is the Class 3 Gunnison Route, a vague idea of a trail that has an 80-foot section with a handheld chain for support. It drops down 1,800’ in one mile, so what it lacks in total distance it makes up for in thrilling scrambling. Rivers flow deep along the canyon floor, a shadowy place where the towering walls feel like the entrance to the netherworld. Wandering the canyon base is so marvelously unique for Colorado, it deserves a visit for adventurous hikers who aren’t afraid to get a little dirty on the way down. 5. Bison Peak Difficulty: Easy but Long A hiker in the midst of the incredible rock towers on Bison Peak. James Dziezynski At 12,431 feet, Bison Peak is a collection of spectacular rock towers built up from a flower-festooned alpine meadow. The Class 1 hiking trail is 11 miles out-and-back starting near the Tarryall Reservoir in the Tarryall Mountains. The gradual hike up to treeline tends to go quickly, and it can get hot and dry in the summer—bring extra water! Cresting treeline opens up views of the wobbly, blocky, stone towers, some of which are over 150’ tall and seemingly transported from the Moab desert. Thankfully, the summit is a half-mile hike off the main trail across grassy meadows with a few easy hills or rock scrambles to the top. Once a bit of a secret, this unique peak has gained popularity in recent years, but is nonetheless rarely ever crowded. 6. Star Dune at Great Sand Dunes National Park Difficulty: Easy Great Sand Dunes National Park. NPS/Patrick Myers While most of the hikes in this list ascend mountains, it would be folly to ignore the fun, open-ended hiking at Great Sand Dunes National Park (especially from October-May, when the park is much cooler than in the summer). Star Dune is the largest of them all, standing at about 700 feet. In the early spring when the rivers run through the fine sand basin, the landscape transforms into a living, breathing desert in a compact package. Above the dunes stand the Sangre de Cristo Peaks, many towering over 13,000’. Wandering among the dunes can be as long or as short as you like it to be—consider it your own personal sandbox. 7. Lion Lakes at Rocky Mountain National Park Difficulty: Moderate The Lion Lakes are a chain of small pools in a pristine basin. Mount Alice looms in the background. James Dziezynski The Lion Lakes are a chain of high alpine pools in the cirque between 13,310’ Mount Alice and 13,579’ Chiefs Head Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. Accessed by the less-crowded Wild Basin Trailhead, this 12 mile out-and-back is mostly on the shared Thunder Lake Trail (itself a fine destination) before eventually splitting off and fading into one of Colorado’s most exquisite backcountry basins. Though the trail eventually fades out, navigation is relatively easy: follow the lakes and connecting streams and waterfalls up to the next tier. Wildflowers abound and the pristine meadows have all the elegant natural charm of Rocky Mountain National Park’s best settings—minus the crowds. Don’t let the high mileage fool you, most of the trail is smooth, flat, and easy to cruise. 8. Pyramid Peak Difficulty: Hard Pyramid Peak’s famous Green Gully. James Dziezynski Pyramid Peak (14,018’) near Aspen is the most difficult day hike on this list—even more so than Longs Peak. While most hikers tackle the Class 3 (or Class 4, in some opinions) without any technical gear, it’s not unheard of to bring along a rope and harnesses. With good route finding, however, the standard route will stay at a tricky but solid Class 3. Most hikers start in the blackness of early morning (3 am is a reasonable start time), chugging up a steep headwall to an exciting scramble to the top (roughly a mile). Mountain goats are regular spectators, and the rock is solid for Elk Range terrain, especially in contrast to the neighboring Maroon Bells. Views from the flat summit look out over the aforementioned Maroon Bells and several other impressive Elk Range Peaks. The round trip is about 8.2 miles, but even strong hikers should give this one 8-10 hours. And bring a helmet! 9. Boulder’s Guardians of the Flatirons Difficulty: Moderate A walk above the Flatirons is a great way to have a true mountain adventure right from the city of Boulder. Michael W Murphy The trio of peaks that stand over Boulder’s iconic Flatirons make for an excellent day hike, which can be done as a loop or a point to point (approximately 12 or 10 miles respectively). Hikers can start at several different trailheads, all within the civilized confines of the city of Boulder. A popular route starts at Gregory Canyon Trailhead near Chautauqua and begins by ascending 3.2 miles to 8,150’ Green Mountain. Next, drop down to the Green-Bear Trail to the West Ridge of Bear Peak and ascend to the 8,460’ summit, where exposed, iron-rich rock offers the best 360 degree views along the traverse. On a clear day, one can see from Denver to Longs Peak to Pikes Peak. The highest and least-visited of the mountains is 8,549’ South Boulder Peak, whose boulder-adorned summit has great views to the west but is obstructed by trees to the east. Return via the Mesa Trail at the foot of the mountains back to Gregory Canyon or make it a point-to-point by leaving a second vehicle at the South Mesa Trailhead. Editor's Note: Parts of the Mesa Trail/Bear Canyon will be closed for trail work on weekdays May-September 2017. The trails will be open on weekends. 10. San Luis Peak Difficulty: Moderate San Luis is one of the best walk-up 14ers, especially in early summer when many small streams run and wildflowers are in full bloom. James Dziezynski 14,014’ San Luis Peak is a nice, long day hike (13.5 miles from the Stewart Creek Trailhead) through one of Colorado’s most vibrant basins. The gradually ascending trail is mellow, Class 1 terrain that starts in a piney forest, passes ponds and pools, and eventually opens up to large meadows with trickling streams, dense beds of colorful flowers, and wide-open views. It’s rarely crowded, despite being one of the 14ers, and the rocky trail at the top is welcoming and easy to follow. Views are understandably incredible, partially due to the relatively remote location of this San Juan mountain Very little manmade evidence is seen from the summit. It’s not technical, it’s not burly, but it sure is lovely. 11. Lost Man Lake Difficulty: Moderate Lost Man Lake with UN 13,001—Colorado’s lowest official 13er—in the background. Fredlyfish4 The trailhead for Lost Man Pass / Lost Man Lake is one mile west of the summit of Independence Pass. It’s easy to find, but note that the road is usually only open from late May to early October when snows close it down. This hike is roughly 7 miles out-and-back (depending on how much wandering you do around the lake itself) and follows the Lost Man Loop Trail through a rocky, rugged, basin. The chunky glacial rock debris is offset by serene lakes on the south side of Lost Man Pass, most notably Independence Lake. Keep hiking up Lost Man Pass up to 12,850’, where the dark, inky waters of Lost Man Lake reveal themselves on the north side. It’s a great place to have a mountain picnic or a chilly dip. Peak baggers have a lot of options in the area, including 13,301’ Geissler Mountain’s rolling ridges and 13,711’ Twining Peak. 12. Mount Elbert Difficulty: Moderate Summit views from Mount Elbert. Michael W Murphy Colorado’s highest peak (and the highest in the entire Rocky Mountain Chain) stands at 14,433’ but luckily it’s a friendly hike via its standard route, the Mount Elbert Trail. This 9 mile out-and-back follows a solid trail from forest to treeline, where hikers get acquainted with the thin air and the possible heartbreak of a pair of false summits. Fear not, the actual summit is not far past the second false summit, and the wide, flat apex has a collection of wide shelters. There is very little exposure along the way, though the views of the town of Leadville and the Sawatch Range are mighty impressive. Worth noting: Colorado’s second highest peak, 14,420’ Mount Massive is just across the street from the Mount Elbert Trailhead. The duo make a nice two-pack punch for an ambitious weekend. 13. Mica Basin Difficulty: Easy to Moderate Mica Lake and the Mica Lake Basin as seen from “Middle Agnes” with one of the two Little Agnes Peaks in the distance. James Dziezynski The roughly 3.8 mile hike (7.6 mile round trip) to Mica Lake starts from the Slavonia Trailhead near Steamboat Springs and is a wonderful introduction to the Park Range. The Zirkel Wilderness is one of the lushest mountain regions in Colorado thanks to its northern location and relatively low elevation. The same storms that keep the rivers flowing provide the ski area’s legendary winter powder. As a result, the area is rich with flowers, flora, and colorful grasses and willows. Mica Lake is a small, greenish blue pool that is a favorite with canines. Nearby summits can be hiked or scrambled up including Little Agnes Peak, a second Little Agnes Peak, Big Agnes Peak, and a scenic point between them not officially named but locally known as “Middle Agnes Peak”. Mica Basin is one of the best autumn day hikes thanks to the variety of colorful foliage. 14. Argentine Pass Difficulty: Easy to Moderate Argentine Pass as seen from Mount Wilcox. If you look closely, there is a Jeep cruising up in the middle section of the road. Grays Peak (l), Torreys Peak (middle) and Mount Edwards (r) stand tall beyond the saddle. James Dziezynski Argentine Pass connects two basins, one accessed from Guanella Pass near Georgetown and a second accessed from the tiny mountain town of Montezuma near Keystone Resort. Both access points require a little 4x4 action to reach (stock SUVs should do fine either way). The eastern approach from Guanella has a parking area at the mining ghost town of Waldorf, where a battered building that once housed the post office still stands. From here, a walk up to the 13,207’ pass is roughly 2 miles one-way up a 4x4 road (dedicated 4x4 vehicles can drive to the top of the pass). From the the Montezuma side, hikers take a 2.5 mile trail up from the less-developed Horseshoe Basin to the pass. From the top of the pass, peak baggers can carry on to grab 13,738’ Argentine Peak to the South or 13,850’ Mount Edwards to the north. An ambitious point-to-point with two cars offers a chance to grab the nearby 14ers, Grays and Torreys Peaks, with a descent to the popular Stevens Gulch Trailhead. 15. Peak 6 via the Colorado Trail Difficulty: Easy to Moderate The Colorado Trail below Peak 6 with Crystal Peak and Pacific Peak on the horizon. James Dziezynski The Tenmile Range is home to the Breckenridge Ski Area, but this lesser-known hike begins from the overflow parking area of Copper Mountain at the Colorado Trail trailhead. This beautiful section of the Colorado Trail ascends through a shady forest before emerging from treeline in roughly 3 miles to vast, open, mountain meadows and stellar views of Copper Mountain to the west and the town of Breckenridge to the east. It is easy to get off trail and walk along the gently rounded hills to gain the ridge between Peaks 6 and 5 and take in the views—the Gore Range to the far west is notable. This is a great trail for a more casual day with friends and dogs, as it never gets too steep and the rewards are well worth the 7 mile round trip. Ambitious hikers can traverse along the ridge north or south if they want more summits or if they want to explore the Breck Ski hills in the offseason. Strong hikers who want a unique point-to-point can traverse past Peak 10 to Crystal Peak and descend all the way to Mayflower Gulch parking area—an adventure that snags 6 named mountains! 16. The Devil’s Causeway Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult The Devil's Causeway is a section of rock only a few feet wide elevated 1,500 feet from the ground. Robin Carroccia If the Spinner of All Lies has affixed his name to a geological feature, you know it’s going to be interesting. The Devil’s Causeway sits in the Flattop Wilderness, an isolated patch of mountains that are accessed from the town of Yampa between I-70 and Steamboat Springs. The hike itself is a nice, 6 mile round trip starting from the East Fork Trail. The namesake feature is a non-technical but heady 50-foot stretch of rock that narrows to 3 feet wide and has drops of 60-80 feet off either side. Depending on your reaction to exposure, this is either a neat walk along a solid spine of rock or a belly-crawling, sphincter-clenching ordeal—or maybe somewhere in between. Even if you opt out of the traverse, a visit to the Flattops is worth the time, as it’s one of Colorado’s less-known mountain areas, and the rock walls and tabled-off summits are quite spectacular. 17. Ice Lakes Basin Difficulty: Moderate One of the upper feeder lakes and old cabin above Ice Lakes Basin, seen from Golden Horn. James Dziezynski Silverton is known for spectacular mountain scenery, and Ice Lakes Basin out of South Mineral Campground offers a snapshot of what makes the San Juan range in southwest Colorado so special. This 7-mile round trip follows a steep but steady trail through the forest to a series of shimmering, blue alpine lakes, including Island Lake. Creeks cascade through the green valleys and roll over rounded rock walls, painting them a mixture of green, black, and grey. The imposing “sinking ship” profile of 13,780’ Golden Horn dominates the skyline—from the perspective of the lakes, it’s hard to believe this cracked and crumbling peak is only a Class 2 scramble! Nearby Pilot Knob, 13,738’, is a shattered comb of rock that is rarely climbed (and usually just by mountaineers knocking off Colorado’s 200 highest mountains; Pilot Knob is the 131st highest). There are also smatterings of mine and cabin ruins at the upper lakes, a testament to the area’s mining history. 18. Sharkstooth Trail Difficulty: Moderate Sharkstooth Trail is a great day hike in a region of Colorado many overlook. jmangum2 The La Plata Mountains can be found in southern Colorado and are normally accessed from the small town of Mancos. The Sharkstooth Trail is an excellent way to tour this lonely chain of distinct peaks. Starting from the Sharkstooth Trailhead, a hike up to 12,000’ Sharkstooth Pass and back (4 miles round trip) may satisfy your mountain cravings. From the start you’ll see the remarkable alternating red and white stripes of 13,232’ Hesperus Mountain, one of the four sacred Navajo mountains. Approaching Sharkstooth Pass, the namesake 12,462’ Sharkstooth Peak juts out from an ocean of talus rock, but the trail remains easy to follow with good footing. Those looking for a bigger day can traverse the basin on the east side of the pass 2.7 miles to the next pass, where the Colorado/Highline Trail continues to the north above Cumberland Basin. 19. Rattlesnake Arches - McInnis Canyons National Conservation Area Difficulty: Moderate The incredible, airy arches at McInnis are one of the most photogenic areas of Colorado. John Strother The Colorado Plateau in Mesa County is home to McInnis Canyons, an area many Coloradans have no idea exists. This spectacular desert playground has the second highest concentration of natural sandstone arches in the world—only nearby Arches National Park has more. There is a lot of open terrain to explore, but a tour on the Rattlesnake Arches Trail (starting from Black Ridge Road) is the best way to take it all in. The arches here resemble prehistoric fossils, pockmarked and elegantly curved. A full out-and-back is about 7 miles, though most hikers detour and explore the many formations along the trails. Crowds are low and the landscape is incredible, so take your time as you walk among these natural wonders. 20. James Peak Difficulty: Moderate James Peak’s approach above St. Marys Glacier. James Dziezynski Finally, we come to the tastefully named James Peak. This 13,301’ summit is a nice walk-up that is 8 miles round trip as an out-and-back. The appeal of the mountain isn’t just its proximity to the Denver/Boulder metro area—its standard route also ascends one of Colorado’s last remaining glaciers, the St. Marys Glacier. The glacier (which has been downgraded as a “semi-permanent snowfield”) is safe for foot travel, as it lacks deep crevasses. A tiny ski area once operated year-round on the glacier from 1930-1986, and the remains of the ski lift can be seen on the way up to the trailhead parking. Above the glacier, the approach to James crosses a long, flat section before ascending up a Class 2 trail along the rounded slopes. Views from the top look out into the Winter Park ski area to the west, the Indian Peaks to the north, and the Front Range to the south.

Monument Rocks is an iconic landmark in Kansas. Lane Pearman

11 Places to See on Your Next Drive Across Kansas (and Why You Should Stop)

Most Americans experience the Sunflower State by driving across on I-70. But head a few minutes off the interstate and you’ll see what the state really has to offer—iconic prairies, adventure-filled state parks, historic sites, and chalky badlands. The next time you're driving through, check out these detour-worthy highlights. 1. Clinton State Park If you love spending time exploring nature, look no further than Clinton State Park. Just a couple miles outside of Lawrence, the park has anything and everything you might want to do. You’ll find an 11-hole disc golf course, 25 miles of hiking and biking trails, including a five-mile cross-country ski trail, flatwater paddling and swimming at Clinton Lake and two ponds for fishing. There are nearly 400 campsites if you decide you need a couple days (or weeks) to see it all. 2. Kaw River Trail Here’s a fun fact: Kansas is the only state to have two designated water trails, one of which is along the Kansas River (known as the ‘Kaw’ to locals). We suggest you launch into the river west of Topeka, in Wamego or Junction City, to paddle through the Sunflower State’s iconic prairieland for more than 100 miles. Bring a lunch and take a leisurely paddle out to one of the picnic-worthy sandbars. There are even a handful of riverside campsites if you want a multi-day paddle—just make sure you secure your boat and set up far away from the water line! 3. Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve There’s only a small percentage of the tallgrass prairie ecosystem left in the United States. Doug Stremel/Kansas Tourism Explore some of the planet’s remaining tallgrass prairie and watch for grazing bison on the 40 miles of trails at the almost 11,000-acre Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve. When the bulk of America’s tallgrass prairie disappeared—carved up in the name of progress by plow-wielding pioneers in the 19th century—a small section of it was preserved here. Plan your visit in the fall, when the grass will be over your head. 4. Wildwood Outdoor Adventure Park Zipline tours at Wildwood Outdoor Adventure Park is a must-do experience. Kansas Tourism Before continuing west to Milford State Park, head about 10 miles north of I-70 to the town of Manhattan, home of Kansas State University. For adventure-lovers, it’s also home to the Wildwood Outdoor Adventure Park, with seven zip-lines and hiking trails. Zip through the trees and learn a little something about the Flint Hills from your guide at the same time. The park is open year round and safety is a top priority. All you have to worry about is enjoying the view! 5. Milford State Park Spend some time boating on the Kansas’s largest lake at Milford State Park. Kansas Tourism Just outside Junction City, Milford State Park clings to the shores of Kansas’s largest lake—the 15,709-acre Milford Reservoir. For land lovers, the park’s nearly eight-mile Eagle Ridge Trail rambles through airy, wildflower-tinged prairie landscape. But the park is really known for fishing—walleye, crappie, largemouth and smallmouth bass, white bass, and catfish can all be caught here. A huge wildlife area is on the west side and you can usually spot a bald eagle or two over there in the winter. 6. Rock City and Mushroom Rock State Park It’s easy to see where the name for Mushroom Rock State Park came from. Lane Pearman Just north of I-70 and south of Minneapolis (Kansas), lies the appropriately named Rock City, where more than 200 Dakota Sandstone boulders dot the landscape. The spherical rocks are the result of millions of years of erosion, dating back to the Cretaceous period when the area was covered by an inland sea. Today, you are free to run around and climb these unique boulders. There are a few established boulder problems, but it’s mostly a create-your-own-line kind of place. About an hour south of Rock City is another of Kansas’ geological oddities—Mushroom Rock State Park. The tiny park was once a landmark for pioneers and used as a meeting place by Native Americans. The mushroom-shaped formations are easy to spot and are fun to photograph. 7. Kanopolis State Park Nestled in the Smoky Hills on the shores of the 3,500-acre Kanopolis Reservoir, the state’s oldest park is also one of Kansas’s most stunning locations. South of I-70 and west of Salina, the 12,500-acre Kanopolis State Park features more than 30 miles of rugged trails for hikers and mountain bikers. You’ll trek over rolling hills, through open prairie and woodlands filled with wildlife, past sandstone bluffs, and into Horsethief Canyon. Head over to the northwest section of the park’s wildlife area to see the Faris Caves, which were carved by early pioneers and used as a school house and living area. 8. Wilson State Park There's something for everyone at Wilson State Park. Kansas Tourism Savor some of the best mountain biking singletrack in Kansas at Wilson State Park, outside Sylvan Grove. The Switchgrass Bike Trail has been designated as an Epictrail by the International Mountain Biking Association, consisting of 20+ miles of uninterrupted singletrack, snaking through a stunning backdrop. Aside from mountain biking, the state park also offers paddling access to the 9,000-acre Wilson Reservoir. Wilson Lake has beautiful, crystal blue waters that are unlike any other in whole state, thanks to the high salt content from the Saline River, which feeds into the lake. 9. Castle Rock Kansas is full of interesting formations like Castle Rock. Harland Schuster/Kansas Tourism Rising above western badlands, the freestanding spire known named Castle Rock is more than just a geological anomaly. This towering pillar of limestone and shale is also rich with historic lore. Named by a survey team in 1865, Castle Rock served as landmark along the Smoky Hills Trail. The route was famously used by the Butterfield Overland Dispatch in the middle of the 19th century to ferry mail, freight and passenger across the state to Colorado. It was also notoriously vulnerable, frequently attacked by Arapaho and Cheyenne defending their historic hunting grounds from encroaching pioneers, and ultimately made obsolete by the arrival of the railroad. Note: Castle Rock is on private land, so be respectful of the property when you visit. 10. Monument Rocks Monument Rocks is also known as the Chalk Pyramids. Kansas Tourism Monument Rocks is one of Kansas’ most iconic natural wonders, and a must-see if you are driving through the state. Carved by the Smoky Hill River more than 80 million years ago, the cluster of pale rock outcroppings, some rising to 70 feet, are referred to as the "chalk pyramids." It was the first National Historic Landmark designated by the National Park Service, and is also a hub for wildlife. American Kestrels nest in the crevices in the looming chalk formations, and pronghorns, coyotes and western rattlesnakes roam the shortgrass prairie fringing the outcroppings. Note: Monument Rocks is on private land, so please be respectful when you visit. 11. Mount Sunflower Take a detour to Mount Sunflower, the highest point in the entire state. Andrea LaRayne Etzel/Kansas Tourism In the far reaches of western Kansas, almost in Colorado, is Mount Sunflower. With an elevation of 4,039 feet, it’s the highest point in the entire Sunflower State. The destination is more hill than mountain, and more a homage to Kansas than a hike. Mount Sunflower is actually located on the Harold Family Ranch, homesteaded over century ago by Edward and Elizabeth Harold in 1905, but is open to the public and all visitors are welcome. The pinnacle is appropriately adorned with a sunflower sculpture—crafted from metal railway scraps. It includes a standing invitation from the Harolds to swing by the ranch house and regale the family with the story of your "trials and tribulations to the lofty summit". There’s really no wrong way to explore the outdoor adventures that Kansas has to offer, so the next time you are cruising along I-70, pick one of these spots to stretch, explore, or even spend the night. And who knows? Maybe you’ll end up extending your road trip by a week or two to make sure you see them all! Written by Malee Baker Oot for RootsRated in partnership with Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks, and Tourism.

Living out of a backpack is an incredible—and incredibly efficient—way to see the world. Madison Eubanks

8 Pro Tips for Spending a Year Living Out of Your Backpack

Taking a year to backpack abroad after college is an idea that just about every young person toys with at one point or another. After all, riding trains to places with unpronounceable names, tasting exotic foods, and meeting fascinating people in faraway places sure has more of a romantic appeal than growing your LinkedIn network and emailing out (unanswered) resumes and applications. While I’d spent most of my young life vaguely planning a post-college backpacking trip, I spent senior year intensively laying out my grand escape. After graduation, I’d pack my bag and spend about six months country-hopping around Europe. I knew that I wanted to move around and see as many places as possible, but that I’d need to balance that with enough structure to keep my parents relatively worry-free. Piecing together a trip of such magnitude was a rightfully daunting task, and it ended up taking the entire eight months to fully plan this grand European dirtbag getaway. As a student, I knew that my budget would be impressively microscopic. This realization led me to seek out alternative means of travel, such as labor exchanges and stints of backcountry trekking. (The 130-mile Kerry Way Trail through the Irish countryside, and the 105-mile Tour de Mont Blanc circumnavigating Western Europe's highest mountain were both notable standouts for achieving the latter method.) Backpacking through quaint villages in Iceland. Matt Guenther While there were times when I felt like a homeless drifter—usually while eating a sandwich on the sidewalk or sleeping in a train station—most of the time being a budget backpack traveler had nothing but perks. Trains and planes were easier to navigate with only a pack, cities became infinitely more accessible, and even hitchhiking became easier without lugging a huge suitcase. For six months, my 50-liter pack held everything I needed—while also holding up to endlessly fickle conditions and being versatile enough to take into the backcountry for 100-mile sections at a time. Better yet, it usually weighed less than 25 pounds at any given moment. In all, the trip was an enormous success. And I attribute much of this success to the minimalist approach taken and to the flexibility thus afforded. Here, as someone who learned a few things the hard way, I'll share some tips gleaned from my own rights and wrongs to help you find your way into the ultimate minimalist adventure. 1. Make A Plan, But Don’t Be Afraid To Deviate Backpacking the Tour de Mont Blanc. Matt Guenther This may seem like a no-brainer, but careful planning is key to helping your backpacking trip go as smoothly as possible. Getting off a plane in a country that’s not your own can quickly spur a moment of panic if you don’t know your next move. Do your research in advance to know the best and most affordable way to get to your destination and to curb disorientation. Learn the currencies and exchange rates if you’re traveling abroad so as not to be taken by surprise when you accidentally purchase a seven dollar cup of coffee. Your plan doesn’t have to be bullet-proof or set in stone, but having one at all will help you stay on track budget-wise and can help ensure that you get to see the major things you want to see. 2. Get The Gear You Need; Avoid The Gear You Don’t There are some unquestionable essentials: a sturdy pair of shoes, a comfortable backpack, a waterproof tent if you’ll be camping, and some anti-bacterial undies for good measure. These items are must-haves. However, don’t fall into the trap of thinking that everything you bring needs to be super nice and new. You’ll more than likely ruin most of the stuff you bring anyway (especially your clothes) and are apt to lose and replace things along the way. 3. Pack Smart Taking to the streets of a French village along the Tour de Mont Blanc. Matt Guenther Simplify your packing process by making a detailed list, revising it, and consulting it often as you begin to fill your bag. For your clothing, think layers. You’ll be best-served by packable, lightweight pieces that can be combined for warmth. At times, you’ll probably find yourself wearing every item of clothing you brought and still shivering a little, but at least your pack will be lighter in moments like this. Be realistic about what you bring along. Do you really need that extra flannel that's marginally more stylish than the one you've already packed? Probably not. Spend some quality time pouring over the contents of your pack; you’re going to get to know these items pretty well over the course of your trip. Consider bringing something a little luxurious in case you start feeling a little, well, homeless. Maybe it’s an old favorite t-shirt, a bottle of nail polish, or a book that’s unrealistically large to carry in your backpack. A small comfort can go a long way at times. 4. Stay Organized Try to fill your bag in the same order each time you pack it, and use strict compartmentalization within your bag. Pack similar items together using gallon Ziploc bags or stuff sacks: one for shirts, one for socks and undies, and so on. Consider a backpack with a secondary entry point for ease of access to those bottom-of-the-pack items. These little tricks will help you know where everything is at all times and lessen the likelihood of a train station meltdown when you have to dig into the 48th liter of your 50-liter pack to locate your toothbrush. After a month or two of loading up your pack, it will become second nature, and you’ll be thankful (and a little proud) when you can easily locate even the smallest item in your backpack in record time. 5. Learn About Travel Regulations You Will Encounter Taking in the Alpine views along the Tour de Mont Blanc. Matt Guenther This is an area of trip planning that requires heavy research beforehand, especially if you’re traveling abroad. Make sure you have a full understanding of Schengen Zone requirements and any visas you might need. Leaving room for spontaneity in your travels is great, but it’s definitely not a good idea to wing it when it comes to visas. Overstaying your welcome in certain countries or zones can result in serious consequences such as fines and bans, so make sure to count your days (literally) and make tracks when your time is up. If you’re planning to do any camping along the way, learn about, and try to obtain, permits ahead of time. If you can’t, at least be aware of the area’s campgrounds and camping regulations. 6. Learn To Navigate Airports Like A Pro Most airlines won’t let you take your fully-loaded backpack as a carry on, so plan to check your bag and then factor that additional cost into your budget. Checking your bag for a flight also means it will likely be majorly man-handled, so make sure to tuck in all your straps and zippers, or consider traveling with a cheap lightweight duffle bag to put your backpack inside of when you fly. If you’re flying with a camp stove or some other cooking apparatus, always take it apart and clean it before putting it on the plane, and empty and rinse your fuel canister each time you fly. 7. Consider Non-Traditional Accommodations WOOF lodging in rural Croatia. Matt Guenther If you’re looking to get away from hostels and off the beaten path, consider doing some sort of labor exchange during your travels. You can learn a new skill such as farming or cooking while saving money that you’d otherwise be spending on lodging. Organizations like WWOOF and WorkAway are great ways to become immersed in a culture, connect with other travelers, and experience people and places on a micro level that is hard to come by as a tourist. 8. Be Nimble; Things Won’t Always Go According To Plan Hitchhiking along the Ring Road in Iceland. Matt Guenther The most careful and detail-oriented planning in the world can’t ensure that your trip will unfold exactly as expected. Go ahead and make peace with the fact that things might be less than ideal at times. This way, when you inevitably get on the wrong train or you're wandering through a strange city at midnight looking for somewhere to stay, you can be confident that a misstep was bound to happen sooner or later. By planning for things to not necessarily go as planned, you’ll be a much happier camper when they don’t. Written by Madison Eubanks for RootsRated.

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